Powered by Blogger.
  • Home
  • About me
  • Crochet
  • Quilling
  • Contact
Etsy Facebook google+ Instagram Pinterest Youtube

BlueberrySwirlz



This pattern is worked top-down in one piece. If you know how to make raglan sleeve pattern alreadythen it is super duper easy for you! Otherwise also it is an easy pattern and uses simple stitches!

This vest is made thick and warm like a coat. Dress up with a long sleeve top or thermal and a pair of leggings and cute little boots!

All crochet terms are US terms. If you would like to buy a printable pdf you can buy it here in my Etsy Store.



Materials:
Yarn: Category 4 yarn.
Hook: 6.0 mm
Buttons
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
hhdc: herringbone half double crochet
ss: slip stitch

With 2 strands held together ch 44

Row1: hhdc in third ch from hook and all remaining stitches. 42

Row2: with stitch markers mark the 8th, 13th, 29th, 34th stitch. Ch2 turn, hhdc in each stitch except the ones with stitch markers. We are going to do 3 hhdc in each stitch(referred to as 3 stitch cluster here on) with a stitch marker. 50

Row3: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch across except the middle stitch from the 3 stitch clusters of the previous row. We are going to work 3 hhdc in each of the middle stitches. 58

Here on every row will increase by 8 stitches.
For size 2T
:  repeat Row3, seven times.
For size 3T: repeat Row3, eight times.
For size 4T; repeat row 3, nine times.

Making the armholes:

Row1: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch until you reach the middle stitch of first 3 stitch cluster. Work 1 hhdc in the middle stitch, ch 4, work 1 hhdc in the middle stitch of the next 3 cluster stitch. We are skipping all the remaining stitches between the 3 cluster stitches. Work 1 hhdc until you reach the middle stitch of the next 3 cluster stitch. Work 1 hhdc into the middle stitch, ch 4 work 1 hhdc into the middle stitch of the next cluster. Work 1 hhdc until you reach the end of the row.

Now your work should start looking like a vest.

Bodice:

Row1: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc into each stitch across.

For size 2T: Repeat Row1 of bodice fifteen times.
For size 3T: Repeat Row1 of bodice sixteen times.
For size 4T: Repeat Row1 of bodice seventeen times.

Belt R1: ch1 turn, sc across.

Skirt:

Row1: ch 2 turn, 2 hhdc in ach stitch across.
Row2-5: ch 2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch across.

Edging:

With CC we will crochet hdc stitches along the bottom, go up the front of one side, around the neck and come down the other side and join back to where we started.

Change to CC. Ch2 turn, work 1 hdc across, working a total of 3 stitches in the last stitch of the row. Rotate your work and even work hdc stitches along the front of one side of the vest. Work 3 hdc in the corner stitch and 1 hdc along each stitch of the neck, which is the foundation ch row. Work 3 hdc in the other corner of the neck, and rotate to work hdc stitches along the other front side of the vest. Work 2 stitches in the first stitch of CC, join with a ss and fasten off.

Armhole edging: 
Join CC in the middle of the armhole, facing right side of the vest, work 1 hdc stitch around, join with a ss and fasten off. Repeat for other armhole.

Attach buttons, use the hdc edging as button holes 😊

Add a simple flower if you like or leave it plain 😊

Note: I did start with sleeves initially but decided to keep it a vest. If you want to add sleeves attach your arm in the middle of the under arm and work a hhdc in stitch around decreasing 2 stitches in the first 2 rows. Always join and turn your rows to have the same texture as the bodice. Also, when you join the arm in the underarm be mindful of the direction. You will notice it immediately after a few stitches if the direction is not right.





Share
Tweet
Pin
Share
No comments


 

Sometimes our kids have that favorite jacket that does not have a hood and that is the only jacket they will wear. How i wished there was a way to add a hood to those! So here is something i designed for my son. It is warm and fuzzy and i even plan to layer it with fleece for the frigid weather.

Best of all he loves it! I asked him whether he would like a button on front or just a round turtle neck to pull it over his head and he said he wanted the button. So be it :)



Construction:
The general construction of the hooded collar is to create a horizontal panel wide enough to go around the neck. then create a vertical panel for the hood. This peice needs to wrap around the head.

Materials:
Yarn: Chunky weight 5 yarn, I used Bernat softee baby chunky in white and Bernat softee chunky in Faded Denim
Hook: 7.00 mm hook
Tapestry needle
Wooden buttons

Abbreviations:
sc: single crochet
sl: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
YOSS: Yarn over slip stitch.
MC: Main color
CC: Contrast Color
BLO: Back loops only
FPDC: Front post double crochet
BPDC: Back post double crochet

Special Stitch
YOSS: Yarn over, 2 loops on hook, insert hook in next stitch and pull up a loop and pull it through the 2 previous loops on hook.

Below numbers are for size 4-6 years. You can easily adjust to any size. Make your foundation chain long enough to around the neck at the bottom of the shoulders, forming a V shape at the bottom and add 6-7 chains more to it. Just like a collar would sit and allow for some overlap to add a button.

Collar
Chain 54 with MC
Row1: YOSS in second chain from hook and all the way across (53).
Row2: ch1 turn YOSS in BLO across the row
Row3-10: Repeat Row 2until you have reached a desired width(53)

Row11: ch1 turn sc 10, chain 31 or as many ch needed to reach the height from shoulder to crown.
Do not fasten off.

Hood 

ch 31 from Row11 of collar works as the foundation chain for the hood.
Row1: work 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in remaining 29 ch, then ss to base of collar (30).
Row2: ss in next stitch of collar, ch1 turn, sc across in 3rd loop of hdc from previous row of hood (30).

Note: do not fasten off if you know how to carry yarn through rows. Otherwise, fasten off. We will be changing colors every 2 rows for the rest of the hood and end in MC.

Row3: change to CC, ch1 turn hdc in BLO across, ss to base of hood (30).
Row4: ss to next stitch of collar, ch1 turn sc in 3rd loop of hdc from previous row (30).
Row5: change to MC, ch1 turn hdc in BLO across, ss to base of hood (30).
Row6: ss to next stitch of collar, ch1 turn sc in 3rd loop of hdc from previous row (30).

Repeat rows 3-6 seven more times or until 11 stitches remain on collar.

Row 35: ch1 turn, sc across and ss to collar, ch1 and sc in next 10 stitches of collar.
Optional Row36: I did a ch1 turn and a round of hdc all the way around. working 3 hdc in corners and hdc2t on the stitches where hood meets the collar.

At this point the hood part should wrap around the head from centre of one ear to another. We are going to gain some more width from the ribbing.

Fold the piece in half along the red line and sew along the blue line using either ss or sc.

Ribbing
Attach white (CC) with sl on either side of the collar, one stitch away from where hood and collar meet.
Ribbing Row1: dc in each stitch along the rim of the hood, join back to collar with ss skipping one stitch from the hood

Ribbing Row2: ss to next stitch on collar, FPDC in first stich of hood from previous round, BPDC in next stitch, FPDC in next and so on, alternate between FPDC and BPDC across the rim and join with a ss in the hood.

Ribbing Row3: repeat ribbing row 2.

Fasten off and add a button on the collar as shown in the picture. No need for a button hole as we can use the hdc row for that.

I ended up adding 2 buttons to make the fit snug.

That's my boy on our trip to the craft store!☺️




Share
Tweet
Pin
Share
No comments


My sister bought a new laptop for school recently and that gave me an opportunity to make her a laptop sleeve. I chose to go with worsted weight 100% cotton yarn, but I am sure it will turn out just as good with any other yarn too. 

I had some mint, white and grey yarn in my stash and decided to use these in a combination that wouldn't look too boring. 



The below pattern calls for a foundation chain in the multiples of 12 then add 3 chains. Using this calculation you can make a sleeve in pretty much any size. 

This pattern is free here but if you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here.

Below is the pattern for a 14" laptop but will easily fit something slightly smaller or bigger.

Materials: 
Yarn: 100% cotton yarn in worsted weight
I used mill end nafs of 100% cotton from AC Moore.
Hook: 5.0 mm
Scissors
Tapestry needle
3 buttons about 1/2 inches in size

Note: all stitches are in US terms 

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc2t: double crochet two together
sc: single crochet

Chain 51 (12×4+3) with mint
Row1: dc in the 4th chain from hook, dc in the next 3 ch, *dc2t next 2 ch, dc2t next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, 2dc in each of next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch*  repeat from * to * 2 more times. Then dc in next 3 stitches, work 2 dc in the last ch. (48) mint

Row2: ch3 turn, dc in the same stitch as ch3, dc in the next 3 stitches, *dc2t next 2 stitches, dc2t next 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, 2dc in each of next 2 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches* repeat from * to * 2 more times. Then dc in next 3 stitches and  end with 2dc in the last stitch. (48) mint

Row3: repeat row 2 with mint

Note: All subsequent rows are going to be a repeat of row2. Below I am only going to specify row number and color. The idea is to decrease the number of mint row repeats and increase the grey row repeats. Grey and mint are always separated by white. After 3 repeats start reversing the order.

Row4: mint
Row5: white
Row6: grey
Row7: white
Row8, 9, 10: mint 
Row11: white
Row12, 13: grey 
Row14: white
Row15, 16: mint
Row17: white 
Row18, 19, 20: grey
Row21: white
Row22: mint
Row23: white
Row24, 25, 26, 27: grey
Row28: white
Row29, 30: mint
Row31: white
Row32, 33, 34: grey 
Row35: white
Row36, 37, 38: mint
Row39: white
Row40, 41: grey

I stopped here. But if you want to make your flap longer follow the below sequence.

Row42: white
Here on repeat from Row1.


Edging: if you ended on a grey row continue with grey otherwise attach grey yarn to the corner where you ended your last row.
Row1: ch1 turn your work sideways and work sc evenly along the straight edge of the piece.
Row2: ch1, turn, sc all the way back along the same edge of the piece. Leave a very long tail for sewing. I left more than a yard long tail as I single crocheted the sides together.

Repeat Row1 and 2 of edging on the other straight edge. 

If you want to line the sleeve like I did, see lining section before continuing.

Now wrap the rectangle around your device and decide the position of the flap and how long you want it. Pin the sleeve sides, leaving a flap of desired length and with the tail, sc the sides together. Do this for both sides. Fasten of, hide the tail and turn your work inside out.

Sew on cute little buttons and we are all done!

Lining: 
I had some left over flannel fabric, it's actually a fat quarter, sew on the lining before you sc the sides.



Share
Tweet
Pin
Share
No comments


There are tons of patterns and designs out there for girls but not so much for boys. Hats are pretty much all I see on the internet.
I designed this shawl collar vest for my boy a couple months ago. It is really easy to make and can actually work for girls too. The vest is created by creating the back and front panels and sewing them together on the side and at the shoulders. And then crochet the ribbing along the neck. Alternately you could create the ribbing first and then sew it. It can be made in any size using any weight yarn.
Let's get started.

Materials:
Yarn: worsted weight yarn or any weight yarn of your choice in two colors, just use the appropriate hook. I used Mill end bag from Michael's in Maroon as my main color(MC) and Red heart soft in Blue as contrast color(CC).
Hook: 5 mm, 4mm
Tapestry needle: optional.
My numbers below are for size 5T years, but like I said above you can use the size chart here to make it in any size (Remember to click on Boys on top, it defaults to Girls.). Also, measure the width of the piece and verify it against the chart.

Abbreviations: 
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
ss: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
YO: yarn over
hhdc: herringbone half double crochet - YO insert hook into next stitch, YO pull through and pull through the first loop on the hook too. YO again and pull through 2 loops on the hook.
hhdc2t: herringbone half double crochet together - YO insert hook into next stitch, YO pull through and pull through the first loop on the hook too. YO insert into next stitch, pull up a loop and pull it thought the first loop on the hook. YO again and pull through 3 loops on the hook.

Bottom ribbing (make 2): Worked with the smaller hook - 4.00mm
With CC chain 11.
Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and all the way across (10)
Row 2: ch 1 turn single crochet in back loops only (10)
Row 3-51: Repeat row 2.

For all other sizes: Repeat Row 2 until the piece is as wide as desired without stretching.

Back panel:
Row1: Join the yarn at the end of the ribbing with a ss and sc 51 evenly across the ribbing (51)
Row2: chain 2, turn, hhdc in the same stitch and every stitch across. (51)
Row3-47: Repeat row 2 (51)
Or until desired height is reached.

Front panel:
Row1: Join the yarn at the end of the second ribbing with a ss and sc 51 evenly across the ribbing (51)
Row2: chain 2, and turn, hhdc in the same stitch and every stitch across. (51)
Row 3-21: Repeat row 2
Row 22-28: Change to CC repeat Row 2 with CC
Row 29-34: Change to MC and repeat Row2.

Add in a few extra rows between color changes for larger sizes and decrease for smaller sizes.

Shaping the neck:
Left side
Here we are going to work hhdc2t stitches on the inner side of the panel in each row to achieve a slanted edge like a V shape on the left side. Join yarn to the left side of the front panel. 

Row35: hhdc 21
Row36: ch2, turn,hhdc2t,  hhdc accross (20)
Row37: ch2, turn,, hhdc accross until 2 stitches remain, hhdc2t in the last 2 stitches(19)
Repeat rows 36 and 37 until height is same as back panel or a total of 47 rows is reached.

Right side: 
Here we are going to work hhdc2t stitches on the inner side of the panel in each row to achieve a slanted edge like a V shape on the right side. Join yarn to the right side of the front panel and work exactly like the left side.

you must have 9 stitches un-worked on row 35. 

Seaming and sleeve edging:
Seam the Back and Front panels together leaving a gap of 14 rows or as desired for the armholes. With CC join at the seam under the arm and work 2 rounds of hdc along the sleeve.

Collar:
With contrast color. Join the yarn with a slip stitch at left side of the unworked stitches on row 35. 
Row1: sc in the same stitch and remaining 8 stitches in the gap. Join with st to the first stitch of Right side.
Row2:ch1, turn and work sc in BLO on the 9 sc from the previous row. 
Repeat Row 2 evenly along the right edge of the neck and 1 row each on the back and again evenly across the left edge of the neck.

Stitch the last row with tapestry needle to the row 35 of the front panel on the under side of Row1. 

Collar Edging: With MC, sc evenly along the neck.

Hide all the tails and the vest is ready : )

Hope my instructions were easy enough to follow! Enjoy!
Share
Tweet
Pin
Share
No comments


After an overwhelming response for this hat on social media, I decided to write up the pattern. This hat is easy to make in any size and any weight of yarn, just use the appropriate hook.
If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. Below is the free pattern. So here we go.

Materials
Yarn: worsted weight yarn, I used Caron cakes.
Hook: 4mm and 5mm
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Pom pom maker (optional)

Abbreviations:
ch : chain
sc: single crochet
ss: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
hdc2t: half double crochet 2 together
YO: yarn over

Special stitches:
First star stitch: to begin a new round of star stitches, chain 3 then
insert into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop - 2 loops on hook
Insert into 3rd chain from hook, pull up a loop - 3 loops on hook
Insert into the 1st stitch of the round and pull up a loop - 4 loops on hook.
Insert into next 2 stitches and pull up a loop each - 6 loops on hook
YO and pull through all 6 loops.
Ch1 to form the eye of the star stitch.

Star Stitch: insert into the eye of the previous star stitch and pull up a loop - 2 loops on hook
Insert around the last post of the previous star stitch and pull up a loop - 3 loops on hook.
Insert into the same stitch as the last post of the previous star stitch and pull up a loop - 4 loops on hook
Insert into next 2 stitches and pull up a loop each - 6 loops on hook
YO and pull through all 6 loops.
Ch1 to form the eye of the star stitch.

Special sc2t: working in the star stitch round, insert hook into the eye of the previous star stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into the slip stitch of the previous round and pull up a loop, YO pull through the 3 loops on hook.

hdc2t: YO and insert into stitch, YO and pull up a loop, 3 loops on hook. Insert into next stitch and pull up a loop, 4 loops on hook. YO and pull through 4 loops on hook.

Note: Measure the head you want to make the beanie for. With the smaller hook  create a ribbing of single crochets worked in the back loops only and make sure you have odd number of rows. Then work rest of the hat with the larger hook. A size chart can be found here.

Ribbing:
With smaller hook chain 8 for baby/toddler sizes , 9 for kids/teen size and chain 11 for adult size hat or more if you want the brim to be wider.
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain from hook and all the way across, ch 1 and turn
Row 2:  sc BLO in the 1st st, that is the same as your ch1 and all the way across, ch1 and turn.
Now repeat Row2 until your piece measures half inch less than the head measurement. Making sure you have odd number of rows.
Join the 2 ends of the ribbing together with a ss to form a circle. Turn the ribbing inside out so that the slip stitch is on the inside.


Hat:
Ch 1 and begin working in rounds.
Round1: sc evenly across each row of the brim ss to 1st sc of the round. You must have odd number of stitches.

Round2: ch1 and work a hdc in the same stitch as the ch1 and all the way across, join with a ss into the 1st hdc of the round.

Round3: ch1 and work a sc into the 3rd loop of the 1st hdc from previous round. This is a little tricky so make sure you don't miss the first stitch. Work a sc in all the stitches in the round. The 3rd loop of a hdc is on the wrong side of the stitch so turn your work slightly inwards to see the 3rd loop. This stitch is also called a hdc camel stitch.

Round4: work the first star stitch and then the rest of the star stitches in the round. After you have worked your last star stitch, work the special special sc2t and join in the round. You should have half the number of star stitches as your beginning sc and a special sc2t.

Round5: ch1 and work 2 sc in each eye of the Star Stitch from the previous round, work 1 sc into the sc2t from the previous round. You should have the same number of stitches as round 1.


Repeat rounds 2-5 as many times as needed to reach 1 inch short of  the height of the hat.
Typically 1 more time for baby size, 2 for child and 3 times for young adult/ adult sizes.

Round6: ch1 hdc2t across the round, working a hdc in the last stitch and join with a ss.

Round7: Repeat Round4

Round8: Repeat Round5

Round9: Repeat Round 6


Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Thread the tapestry needle with the tail and work a running stitch in the last round, pull tight to close the hole on the top and weave in the end.
You can either stop here or attach a pom pom on top. 


Special note: to make a messy bun beanie stop at round 8 and work a round of sc around a hair tie.

Please leave your suggestions/ thoughts and experiences with this pattern in the comments below.
Share
Tweet
Pin
Share
No comments
I wanted to make a soft cuddly blanket for my baby girl Esha while I was still pregnant. I had crocheted a blanket earlier for my son and had done several smaller projects, but they had all been simple single crochet, double crochet things.

I started looking on the internet for crochet baby blanket pictures and I really liked all the ripple blankets. So I headed over to YouTube to learn how to do a crochet ripple. Crochet Blossom has an amazing tutorial on that and in fact I settled with the very colors she had on the video thumbnail.



I decided to go with Caron Simply Soft in Robbins Egg, Soft white and watermelon.
I did the edging by following a tutorial from Attic24. I wanted straight edge for my blanket.

It also turned out as a great background for my baby's photo shoot!


Share
Tweet
Pin
Share
No comments
Another fun project was quilling Minnie Mouse and Daisy Duck. I even recorded a video while making this. I think the most difficult part of this was getting the outline correct. I use thicker paper which makes it difficult to shape it. Checkout the pictures and the video too!

When a work in progress picture gets as many likes!

Here's part 1 of the video. I had to speed it up because it takes hours to make these.


And part 2.




Share
Tweet
Pin
Share
No comments
Newer Posts
Older Posts

About me

I am a wife, mom, avid reader, artist, working professional who likes doing all things crafty. I am also passionate about travel and hiking. I hope you like what you see here.

Follow Me

  • Etsy
  • Facebook
  • google+
  • instagram
  • Pinterest
  • youtube

Contact Form

Name

Email *

Message *

Blog Archive

  • ▼  2019 (4)
    • ▼  February (1)
      • Faux fur Baby hooded vest free crochet pattern
    • ►  January (3)
  • ►  2018 (11)
    • ►  December (5)
    • ►  November (2)
    • ►  October (4)
  • ►  2016 (7)
    • ►  November (7)
Facebook Instagram Google+ Youtube
FOLLOW ME @INSTAGRAM

Created with by ThemeXpose | Copy Blogger Themes