I simply loved the colors in the little bo beep shade of Bernat Softee Baby yarn. Originally bought for my baby girl, there were 2 skeins left and when my dear friend was visiting I decided to make her a sweater. Now, working with a weight 3 yarn is very different than working with weight 4. It seems to take longer but the end result is worth it!



I used Bernat Softee Baby Little Bo Beep  as my Primary Color(Variegated) and Bernat Softee Baby Antique White as my Secondary color. But you can try pretty much any combination you want. Use solid shades for both or solid as primary color and variegated for secondary color, the choices are endless.
Below is the pattern for US size XS/S. It is meant to be a little fitted.
If you would like a printable PDF file with more sizes (M and L), please head over to my Etsy store or click here.

Level: Intermediate (2-3/5)

Materials:
Yarn: 3 skeins of Bernat Softee Baby in primary color and 1 skeins of secondary color
Hook: 4.5 mm
Stitch markers: 4
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet
HDC2T: Half Double Crochet 2 Together
SC2T: Single Crochet 2 together

Pattern Notes:
3 Stitch Cluster: 3 HDC stitches worked in the same stitch to form a cluster, used in the increase rounds for raglan. 
Starting ch does not count as a stitch. Join with sl st at the end of each round and turn.

How to read the Pattern
 2DC would mean 2 DC in the same stitch of previous row. DC2 would mean 1 DC in each of the next 2 stitches


Chain 80 with primary color, join in the round with a sl st, turn.
Rnd1: ch3, dc in the same stitch as ch3 and all the way across. (80)

Rnd2: ch3, work alternating FPDC and BPDC across. (80)

Rnd3: ch2, HDC across. (80)


Dividing for sleeves. Place stitch marker in 2nd stitch of each 3 stitch cluster.

Rnd4: ch2, HDC in 14 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 11 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 27 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 11 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 13 stitches. Join with slip stitch and turn.(88)


Rnd5: ch2, HDC in each stitch till you reach the first stitch marker, 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, *continue HDC to the next stitch marker, work a 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster* repeat from * to * 2 more times. Work HDC in each of the remaining stitches. (96)

Each row will increase by 8 stitches.
Repeat Rnd5 twelve more times to end with 192 stitches.

Joining to form armholes.
Rnd18: HDC in each stitch till the first stitch marker, 1 HDC in the stitch marker, ch4, HDC in the 2nd stitch marker, Skip all stitches in between. This will form the first armhole. Continue HDC stitches to 3rd stitch marker, 1 HDC in the 3rd stitch marker, ch4, HDC into the 4th stitch marker. This forms the second armhole. HDC into the remaining stitches. Join with slip stitch and turn as usual. (112 HDC + 8 chains)

Body
If you have end up with an extra stitch or a stitch less. Adjust in this round using HDC2T or working 2HDC in the last stitch to end with 120 stitches. It is important to have 120 stitches to work the ripple effect.
Rnd19: ch2 turn. HDC in each stitch across, including the ch4s in the under arms. Work 1 HDC in each chain. Join with a slip stitch. (120)

Repeat Rnd19 twenty more times.

Setup round for ripple.

Rnd40: Switch to secondary color. ch1 turn,  * SC2, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2* repeat from * to* join with a slip stitch. (120)

Rnd41-42:  ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (120)

Rnd43:  Switch to primary color. ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (120)

Repeat Rnd41 and Rnd43 in combinations of 3 rounds of Rnd41 and 1 round of Rnd43 for three more times.

Rnd56-58 in Secondary Color.



Fasten off or repeat to reach a desired length.


Sleeves:

Join primary color yarn in the under arm. In between the ch4.

Check the direction of your work. It should be opposite of the previous round. You will know for sure after 4-5 stiches. If it looks odd, go back and start in the opposite direction.

Rnd1: ch2, HDC, HDC2T, HDC2T the rough edges, work HDC evenly in each stitch from the yoke. HDC2T, the rough edges, HDC2T, slip stitch to join. (45)

If you have extra stitches adjust in this round by doing HDC2T as needed
Rnd2: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (45)

Rnd3: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC across to the end and HDC2T the last 2 stitches. Join with a slip stitch. (43)

Rnd4-10: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (43)

Rnd11: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC across to the end and HDC2T the last 2 stitches. Join with a slip stitch. (41)

Rnd12-18: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (41)



Setup row for ripple effect.

Row1: with secondary color ch1 turn, SC2T, SC, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2, * SC2, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2* repeat from * to* join with a slip stitch. (40)

Row2: ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (40)

Row3: Repeat Row2 (40)

Row4: switch to primary color, ch2 turn, repeat Row 2 (40)

Row5-7: Repeat Row 2 (40)

Row8: Switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC2T, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2T, HDC2T, join with a slip stitch. (38)

Row9-11: Switch to secondary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HTC2T, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to *  and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC, HDC2T. Join with a slip stitch. (38)

Row12: Switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC2T, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Row13-15: Switch to secondary color. ch2, turn, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T, *HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Row16: switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2T. Join with a slip stitch. (32)

Row17-19: with secondary color, ch2 turn. HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and then in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC. Join with slip stitch (32)

Row20: switch to primary color, ch2 turn, HDC2T the first two stitches and plus one additional HDC in the second stitch, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and then for the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, HDC in the second last stitch plus, HDC2T second last stitch and the last stitch. Join with a slip stitch. (30)

Row21-22: switch to secondary color, ch2 turn,  2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * then HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, join with a slip stitch. (30)

Row23: ch1 turn, 2SC, SC2, SC2T, *SC2T, SC2, 2SC, 2SC, SC2, SC2T, repeat from * to * then SC2T, SC2, 2SC, join with a slip stitch (30)

Repeat Row 21 more times in appropriate colors for longer sleeves.

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
YOST: Yarn Over Slip Stitch
HDC2T: Half Double Crochet 2 Together
3 stitch cluster: 3 HDC stitches worked in the same stitch.

Chain 46

Row1: HDC in second ch from hook and all the way across.(44)

Row2: ch2, turn. HDC in next 8 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch, place marker in 2nd stitch, HDC in next 4 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch, HDC in next 16 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next, HDC in next 4 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next, HDC in next 8 stitches. (52)

Row3: ch2, turn. *HDC in each stitch till the first marker, 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch* repeat from * to * till the 4th marker, HDC in each of the remaining stitches. (60)

Each round increases by 8 stitches.
Row4-12: Repeat Row3 (132)

Joining in the back
Row13: Work same as Row 3 except join with a slip stitch on top of  the first HDC of the Row. (140)


Forming arm holes

Row14: Ch2, turn, HDC in each stitch until first marker, HDC in the marker stitch, ch4, HDC in the second marker stitch. Skip all stitches in between, this forms the first armhole. HDC in each stitch till the third marker, HDC in the marked stitch, ch4, HDC in the fourth marker stitch. Skip all stitches in between. This forms the second arm hole. Join  in the round with a slip stitch. (88)

Body
Here on we will continue to work in rounds and turn after each round.

Rnd1: ch2, turn, HDC in the first stitch and in each stitch around including the ch4 in the arm holes. Join with a slip stitch (88)

Rnd2: ch2, turn, HDC in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch (88)

Rnd3-10: Repeat Rnd2 (88)

Rnd11-13:  ch1, turn, SC in each stitch across, join with a  slip stitch (88)


Rnd14: ch 1, turn, SC2 in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch. (176)

Rnd15-30: ch3, turn, DC in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch. (176)

Rnd31: ch1, turn, YOSL in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch. (176)


Sleeves:
Repeat for both sleeves.

Join yarn in the underarm, in the middle of ch4 from Row14.

Rnd1: ch2, check the direction of work, it needs to be opposite of the previous row. HDC2T the ch spaces, HDC2T rough edge and next stitch, HDC in each stitch across from the yoke, HDC2T last stitch from yoke and rough edge, HDC2T next 2 ch spaces. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Rnd2: ch2 turn, HDC in each  stitch across. Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd3: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC in each stitch, HDC2T last 2 stitches, join with a slip stitch.

Rnd4-10: Repeat Rnd2 (32)

Rnd11: ch1 turn, SC in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch (32)

Rnd12: ch3 turn, DC2 in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch.(64)

Rnd13-14: ch3 turn, DC in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch. (64)

Rnd15: ch1 turn, YOSL in each stitch. Join with a slip stitch.

Edging around neck and back

Attach yarn on left bottom of back opening, SC evenly along left side, just before the corner stitch, ch5 and slip stitch in the same ch to form the button clasp. Work 3SC in the corner. 1SC in each foundation ch around the neck, work 3SC in the corner, come down the right side. Fasten off.
Attach a button.

Hide all tails and it is ready!

This ear warmer pattern is very close to my heart. It uses the same stitch as my Floral Fantasy Scarf.  Read my blog on Floral Fantasy Scarf here. Because that is one of my premium patterns I decided to do a free pattern using the same stitch 😊

This pattern is for adult women's size and measures 19 inches wide. Working with a smaller yarn and hook will create a smaller one. I have not tested it though. If you do, please leave a comment about your experience so that it can help others trying this pattern.

If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. The PDF has a lot more progress pictures. Below is the free pattern. So here we go.


Materials:
Yarn: Caron Simply Soft, main color half skein (Off White), coordinating colors in small quantities - Soft pink and Robbin's egg.
Hook: 5.00mm
Scissors
Stitch marker - optional but good to have.

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
DC: Double Crochet
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
BLO: Back Loops Only
ss st: slip stitch




Note: This pattern is worked in the round and joined with slip stitch. The stitch count across the pattern remains same. 

Chain 72, join in the first ch

With Off White
Row1: ch1, HDC in the same stitch as ch1 and all the way across, join in the round.

Row2: ch1, SC in the 3rd loop of HDC, mark it with a stitch marker, SC in 3rd loop of HDC all the way across.

With Robbin's Egg
Row3: ch1, *SC 5 in BLO, ch2, skip 6 stitches, (DC + ch1) 7 times in both loops of the next stitch, ch1, skip 6 stitches* repeat from *to * till the end, join in the 1st SC with a ss st.

Row4: ss st into next stitch, ch1, *SC in BLO of next 3 stitches, ch2, puff stitch + ch1 in each ch1 space from previous row (6 times), ch1, skip 1SC from below* repeat from * to * till the end of the round, join with slip stitch on top of first SC.

With Off White
Row5: HDC in each of the 3 SC from previous row, 2HDC in each ch2 space, HDC in each puff stitch and each ch1 space. Join in the round with a slip stitch.

Row6: repeat Row 2

With Soft Pink
Row7: skip 2 stitches, join yarn in next stitch. ch4, put a stitch marker in 3rd ch. This acts as a DC + ch1. (DC +ch1) 6 more times in the same stitch, ch1, skip 6, SC 5 in BLO, ch 2, *skip 6, (DC +ch1) 7 times in the next stitch, ch1, skip 6, SC 5 in BLO, ch 2* repeat from * to * ss st on top of ch 3, marked with stitch marker.



Row8: ch2, (1puff stitch + ch1) in each ch1 space, ch1, skip 1SC below, SC 3 in BLO, skip 1 SC, ch2, *(1puff stitch +ch1) in each ch1 space below, ch1, skip 1SC below, SC 3 in BLO, skip 1 SC, ch2* repeat from * to * join with ss st in the first puff stitch.

With Off White
Row9:  repeat Row5
Row10: repeat Row2
Fasten off.

Line it with fleece if you live in a cold region like me 😊

If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. Below is the free pattern. So here we go.

Materials:
Yarn: Worsted Weight or Category 4 yarn. I used just over 6 skeins of Isaac Mizrahi Craft Yarn, University in Parsons
Hook: 5.5 mm
Tapestry needle( optional, for hiding the tails)
Abbreviations:
ch: chain
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
FLDC : Front Loop Double Crochet, a double crochet in the front loop only
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet
sl st: slip stitch

Suggestions for all other sizes are at the very end.

For size S
Ch 68
Row1: FLDC in 3rd ch from hook and all the way across (66)

Row2: Ch2, turn, FLDC in 9 stitches, 2FLDC, ch2, 2FLDC in the 10th stitch. *FLDC in the next  15 stitches, 2FLDC, ch2, 2FLDC in the next stitch*
Repeat from * to * 2 more times, FLDC in the remaining 8 stitches. (82)

Row3: ch2 turn. *FLDC in each stitch until the ch2 space. 2FLDC, ch2, 2FLDC in the ch2 space* repeat from * to* to complete the row.(98)

Row4-10: Repeat Row3 (226)

Shaping Armholes: 
FLDC in each stitch until first ch2 space, 2FLDC in first ch2 space, ch 2 , 2 FLDC in second ch2 space, we are going to skip all the stitches between the two ch2 spaces. This is the first armhole formed.
FLDC in next stitch and all the way to the thirst ch2 space. 2FLDC in third ch2 space, ch2 , 2 FLDC in fourth ch2 space, we are going to skip all the stitches between the two ch2 spaces. This is the second armhole formed. Ch2 turn


Body:
Row1:  FLDC in each FLDC from previous row and each ch in the armhole, ch2 turn.
Row2-15: FLDC in each stitch across, ch2 turn

Ribbing:

Row1: dc in both loops all the way across, ch2 turn.
Row2: dc in the first stitch which is the same stitch as ch2, *FPDC in next, BPDC in next* repeat from * to* until you have 1 stitch left, dc in last stitch. Ch2 turn.
Row3: Repeat Row2. Make sure FPDC is on top of FPDC from previous row and BPDC is on top of BPDC from previous row.
Sleeves:
Join the yarn in the middle Of the underarm. Mine is in the left ch2 when right side up. In the first row of the sleeve it is important that you work in the correct direction, with your work facing right side, join yarn and after a few stitches you will be able to make out if the direction of your work is correct or not.

Row1: ch2, dc in same stitch, dc2t the rough edges of the underarm, dc2t rough edge and ch space from Row10, dc2t ch2 space and next stitch. Until this point we are working in both loops. Now on continue to work in front loops only. Mark the center 2 loops in the round with stitch markers. FLDC in each stitch until the stitch markers, dc2t front loops only next 2 stitches, FLDC till you reach one stitch before the ch2 space from Row 10. Dc2t next stitch and ch2 space, dc2t ch2 space and rough edge, dc2t rough edge and ch from shaping underarm. Join with sl st to top of first dc. Ch2 turn
Note: when joining in the round join on both loops throughout the pattern.


Row2: dc2t front loops only - 2 times, FLDC all the way across with a dc2t in front loops only the 2 stitches in the center. Dc2t 2 times in the end, join with sl st, ch2 turn.

Row3: dc2t front loops only, FLDC all across with dc2t front loops only in the middle and continue with FLDC ending in dc2t front loops only, join with sl st ch2 turn. 47

Row4: dc2t front loops only, FLDC all the way across ending in dc2t front loops only join with sl st, ch2 turn. 45


Row5: repeat row 4 (43)

Row6: Repeat row4 (41)

Row7: FLDC all the way across, join with sl st, ch2 turn (41)

Row8: Repeat Row 4 (39)

Row9-16: repeat row7 (39)

Row17: repeat row4 (37)

Row18-19: repeat row7 (37)

Do not fasten, continue to sleeve ribbing.

Sleeve Ribbing:

At the end of row 19. Do not turn. Continue to ch9.

Row1: skip 1 chain and YOST into second chain from hook, YOST into the remaining chains, sl st into base of same stitch at ch9. (8)
Row2:  sl st into next stitch of sleeve, ch1, YOST into back loops only of previous row. Be careful to ignore the slip stitches at the beginning and do not miss the last stitch. Ch1, turn. (8)
Row3: YOSL into back loops only into each stitch, sl st into base if the stitch, sl st into next stitch of sleeve, ch1 turn. (8)
Repeat Rows 2and 3 all the way around the sleeve. Total 37 rows.
Sew the two ends of the sleeve ribbing using  slip stitches


Neckline or Collar Ribbing:

With right side facing up, join yarn in the corner of the left panel. Chain 11.
This ribbing is worked in the same way as the sleeve ribbing. Here you will have 66 rows.
Do not fasten off, continue to edging.

Front edging:
Right side: continue from the collar, ch1, turn work by 90 degrees. Evenly work 1 HDC along the length of the right front. I worked 1 HDC in each YOST from collar and approximately 2 HDC per row of the body. Ch1, turn

Row2-4: HDC across, ch1 turn.

Left side: join yarn to bottom of left panel and evenly work HDC along the left side. Ch1, turn
Make sure the number of stitches in same as on right edging.

Rows 2-4: HDC across, ch1, turn.

This vest is made thick and warm like a coat. Dress up with a long sleeve top or thermal and a pair of leggings and cute little boots!

All crochet terms are US terms. If you would like to buy a printable pdf you can buy it here in my Etsy Store.



Materials:
Yarn: Category 4 yarn.
Hook: 6.0 mm
Buttons
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
hhdc: herringbone half double crochet
ss: slip stitch

With 2 strands held together ch 44
Row1: hhdc in third ch from hook and all remaining stitches. 42
Row2: with stitch markers mark the 8th, 13th, 29th, 34th stitch. Ch2 turn, hhdc in each stitch except the ones with stitch markers. We are going to do 3 hhdc in each stitch(referred to as 3 stitch cluster here on) with a stitch marker. 50

Row3: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch across except the middle stitch from the 3 stitch clusters of the previous row. We are going to work 3 hhdc in each of the middle stitches. 58

Here on every row will increase by 8 stitches.
For size 2T:  repeat Row3, seven times.
For size 3T: repeat Row3, eight times.
For size 4T; repeat row 3, nine times.

Making the armholes:

Row1: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch until you reach the middle stitch of first 3 stitch cluster. Work 1 hhdc in the middle stitch, ch 4, work 1 hhdc in the middle stitch of the next 3 cluster stitch. We are skipping all the remaining stitches between the 3 cluster stitches. Work 1 hhdc until you reach the middle stitch of the next 3 cluster stitch. Work 1 hhdc into the middle stitch, ch 4 work 1 hhdc into the middle stitch of the next cluster. Work 1 hhdc until you reach the end of the row.

Now your work should start looking like a vest.

Bodice:

Row1: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc into each stitch across.

For size 2T: Repeat Row1 of bodice fifteen times.
For size 3T: Repeat Row1 of bodice sixteen times.
For size 4T: Repeat Row1 of bodice seventeen times.

Belt R1: ch1 turn, sc across.

Skirt:

Row1: ch 2 turn, 2 hhdc in ach stitch across.
Row2-5: ch 2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch across.

Edging:

With CC we will crochet hdc stitches along the bottom, go up the front of one side, around the neck and come down the other side and join back to where we started.

Change to CC. Ch2 turn, work 1 hdc across, working a total of 3 stitches in the last stitch of the row. Rotate your work and even work hdc stitches along the front of one side of the vest. Work 3 hdc in the corner stitch and 1 hdc along each stitch of the neck, which is the foundation ch row. Work 3 hdc in the other corner of the neck, and rotate to work hdc stitches along the other front side of the vest. Work 2 stitches in the first stitch of CC, join with a ss and fasten off.

Armhole edging: 
Join CC in the middle of the armhole, facing right side of the vest, work 1 hdc stitch around, join with a ss and fasten off. Repeat for other armhole.

Attach buttons, use the hdc edging as button holes 😊

Add a simple flower if you like or leave it plain 😊

Note: I did start with sleeves initially but decided to keep it a vest. If you want to add sleeves attach your arm in the middle of the under arm and work a hhdc in stitch around decreasing 2 stitches in the first 2 rows. Always join and turn your rows to have the same texture as the bodice. Also, when you join the arm in the underarm be mindful of the direction. You will notice it immediately after a few stitches if the direction is not right.