I had been wanting to try the Lion Brand Yarn Go for Faux for a while and I found a great deal on Walmart. 3 skeins for 10$. I was able to make this for vest with a nice and big hood plus have some left to make a hat or something.

I have made this for 6-12 months size. My baby is exactly 6 months old in this picture. But there is still a lot of room for when she grows to be 12 months old. So the hood needs to be bigger/ longer as she barely has any neck yet :D

So, below numbers are for this size but you could go exactly as I did. I took my baby's Oshkosh Gosh fleece hoodie and kept making according to it. Also, look for the inside room of this garment. Because the yarn is so thick it will be a lot smaller on the inside than it looks from outside.

Also, the yarn needs some getting used to. Make some chains, HDC to get a hang of it first. The stitches are super difficult to see but can be felt easily. Use stitch markers where ever possible!

I was a little slow but by the time I reached round 4, my speed had picked up a lot.

If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. Below is the free pattern.

Materials:

Yarn: Go for Faux by Lion brand yarn. 3 skeins which is a category 6 yarn.
Hook: 10.0 mm
Stitch markers: at least 4.
A sample hoodie to go by :)

Abbreviations:
Ch: chain
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
HDC2T: Half Double Crochet 2 Together

For size 6-12m
Chain 40, join to the first chain with a slip stitch.

For other sizes, make a long chain and join. Measure against the bottom of the sample hoodie. Remember to measure the inside of the chain with the hoodie.

Round1: ch2, HDC in the first stitch and all the way across. Join in the round with a sl st. (40)

Round2-8: ch2, turn, HDC across. Sl st to the first stitch. (40)

Place stitch markers in the 1st, 20th, 21st and the 40th stitches. This step is very important while working with this yarn, as stitches are hard to see and you have to feel them. Stitches 1 to 20 will form the front and 21st to 40 the back side.

We will be working the back and the front from here in rows.
Front:
Round9: CH2 turn, HDC2T, HDC 16, HDC2T. (18)

Round10: ch2 turn. HDC2T, HDC 14, HDC2T. (16)

Place stitch markers in the 8th and 9th stitches to mark the ends of front left and front right. These are the middle 2 stitches of the front side, we mark them to form a V-neck.
Front left:
Round11: ch2 turn, HDC6, HDC2T. (7)

Round12: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC5 to the end of the row. (6)

Round13: ch2 turn, HDC5, HDC2T. (5)

Round14: ch2 turn, HDC across. (5)
Leave a long tail for sewing.

Front right:
Round11: attach yarn in the 9th stitch of round 10. Ch2, HDC2T, HDC6. (7)

Round12: ch2 turn, HDC 5, HDC2T. (6)

Round13:ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC 4. (5)

Round14: ch2 turn, HDC across. (5)

Back:
Repeat round 7 and 8 from front side. (16)

Round11-14: ch2 turn, HDC across. (16)

Sewing:

Sew the tops shoulders together marking five stitches on both left and right sides of the back panel. Sew using sl st. Turn the piece inside out. Pull out some of the fur that has settled in between the stitches and fluff them a bit.

Hood:

With right side facing up, attach yarn to 3 stitches down from shoulder seem on left front.

Row1: Ch2, HDC in same stitch and next stitch, HD2T next stitch and the first stitch on the back of the neck line. Work 1 HDC in each of the stitches from the back of neckline. HDC2T the last stitch of neckline and first stitch of right front. HDC in next 2 stitches. (10)

Row2: ch2 turn, 2HDC in first stitch, HDC across and 2 HDC in last stitch. (12)
Repeat Row2 as many times as needed, I repeated 8 more times. (28)

Next row: Ch2, turn, HDC across. (28)

Next row: Ch2, turn, HDC across. (28)

Do not fasten off. Fold the top of the hood in half and slip stitch the last row together to form a hood. As shown by the blue dotted line below.
Fasten off.

Attach the yarn in one stitch before the hood on the left front. ch2, work HDC evenly across the front of the hood, work 2 HDC2T stitches around the sewing on top of the hood, Continue to work HDC to the end of the hood. sl st to right front and fasten off.

I simply loved the colors in the little bo beep shade of Bernat Softee Baby yarn. Originally bought for my baby girl, there were 2 skeins left and when my dear friend was visiting I decided to make her a sweater. Now, working with a weight 3 yarn is very different than working with weight 4. It seems to take longer but the end result is worth it!



I used Bernat Softee Baby Little Bo Beep  as my Primary Color(Variegated) and Bernat Softee Baby Antique White as my Secondary color. But you can try pretty much any combination you want. Use solid shades for both or solid as primary color and variegated for secondary color, the choices are endless.
Below is the pattern for US size XS/S. It is meant to be a little fitted.
If you would like a printable PDF file with more sizes (M and L), please head over to my Etsy store or click here.

Level: Intermediate (2-3/5)

Materials:
Yarn: 3 skeins of Bernat Softee Baby in primary color and 1 skeins of secondary color
Hook: 4.5 mm
Stitch markers: 4
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet
HDC2T: Half Double Crochet 2 Together
SC2T: Single Crochet 2 together

Pattern Notes:
3 Stitch Cluster: 3 HDC stitches worked in the same stitch to form a cluster, used in the increase rounds for raglan. 
Starting ch does not count as a stitch. Join with sl st at the end of each round and turn.

How to read the Pattern
 2DC would mean 2 DC in the same stitch of previous row. DC2 would mean 1 DC in each of the next 2 stitches


Chain 80 with primary color, join in the round with a sl st, turn.
Rnd1: ch3, dc in the same stitch as ch3 and all the way across. (80)

Rnd2: ch3, work alternating FPDC and BPDC across. (80)

Rnd3: ch2, HDC across. (80)


Dividing for sleeves. Place stitch marker in 2nd stitch of each 3 stitch cluster.

Rnd4: ch2, HDC in 14 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 11 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 27 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 11 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 13 stitches. Join with slip stitch and turn.(88)


Rnd5: ch2, HDC in each stitch till you reach the first stitch marker, 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, *continue HDC to the next stitch marker, work a 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster* repeat from * to * 2 more times. Work HDC in each of the remaining stitches. (96)

Each row will increase by 8 stitches.
Repeat Rnd5 twelve more times to end with 192 stitches.

Joining to form armholes.
Rnd18: HDC in each stitch till the first stitch marker, 1 HDC in the stitch marker, ch4, HDC in the 2nd stitch marker, Skip all stitches in between. This will form the first armhole. Continue HDC stitches to 3rd stitch marker, 1 HDC in the 3rd stitch marker, ch4, HDC into the 4th stitch marker. This forms the second armhole. HDC into the remaining stitches. Join with slip stitch and turn as usual. (112 HDC + 8 chains)

Body
If you have end up with an extra stitch or a stitch less. Adjust in this round using HDC2T or working 2HDC in the last stitch to end with 120 stitches. It is important to have 120 stitches to work the ripple effect.
Rnd19: ch2 turn. HDC in each stitch across, including the ch4s in the under arms. Work 1 HDC in each chain. Join with a slip stitch. (120)

Repeat Rnd19 twenty more times.

Setup round for ripple.

Rnd40: Switch to secondary color. ch1 turn,  * SC2, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2* repeat from * to* join with a slip stitch. (120)

Rnd41-42:  ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (120)

Rnd43:  Switch to primary color. ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (120)

Repeat Rnd41 and Rnd43 in combinations of 3 rounds of Rnd41 and 1 round of Rnd43 for three more times.

Rnd56-58 in Secondary Color.



Fasten off or repeat to reach a desired length.


Sleeves:

Join primary color yarn in the under arm. In between the ch4.

Check the direction of your work. It should be opposite of the previous round. You will know for sure after 4-5 stiches. If it looks odd, go back and start in the opposite direction.

Rnd1: ch2, HDC, HDC2T, HDC2T the rough edges, work HDC evenly in each stitch from the yoke. HDC2T, the rough edges, HDC2T, slip stitch to join. (45)

If you have extra stitches adjust in this round by doing HDC2T as needed
Rnd2: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (45)

Rnd3: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC across to the end and HDC2T the last 2 stitches. Join with a slip stitch. (43)

Rnd4-10: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (43)

Rnd11: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC across to the end and HDC2T the last 2 stitches. Join with a slip stitch. (41)

Rnd12-18: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (41)



Setup row for ripple effect.

Row1: with secondary color ch1 turn, SC2T, SC, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2, * SC2, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2* repeat from * to* join with a slip stitch. (40)

Row2: ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (40)

Row3: Repeat Row2 (40)

Row4: switch to primary color, ch2 turn, repeat Row 2 (40)

Row5-7: Repeat Row 2 (40)

Row8: Switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC2T, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2T, HDC2T, join with a slip stitch. (38)

Row9-11: Switch to secondary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HTC2T, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to *  and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC, HDC2T. Join with a slip stitch. (38)

Row12: Switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC2T, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Row13-15: Switch to secondary color. ch2, turn, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T, *HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Row16: switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2T. Join with a slip stitch. (32)

Row17-19: with secondary color, ch2 turn. HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and then in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC. Join with slip stitch (32)

Row20: switch to primary color, ch2 turn, HDC2T the first two stitches and plus one additional HDC in the second stitch, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and then for the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, HDC in the second last stitch plus, HDC2T second last stitch and the last stitch. Join with a slip stitch. (30)

Row21-22: switch to secondary color, ch2 turn,  2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * then HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, join with a slip stitch. (30)

Row23: ch1 turn, 2SC, SC2, SC2T, *SC2T, SC2, 2SC, 2SC, SC2, SC2T, repeat from * to * then SC2T, SC2, 2SC, join with a slip stitch (30)

Repeat Row 21 more times in appropriate colors for longer sleeves.

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
YOST: Yarn Over Slip Stitch
HDC2T: Half Double Crochet 2 Together
3 stitch cluster: 3 HDC stitches worked in the same stitch.

Chain 46

Row1: HDC in second ch from hook and all the way across.(44)

Row2: ch2, turn. HDC in next 8 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch, place marker in 2nd stitch, HDC in next 4 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch, HDC in next 16 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next, HDC in next 4 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next, HDC in next 8 stitches. (52)

Row3: ch2, turn. *HDC in each stitch till the first marker, 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch* repeat from * to * till the 4th marker, HDC in each of the remaining stitches. (60)

Each round increases by 8 stitches.
Row4-12: Repeat Row3 (132)

Joining in the back
Row13: Work same as Row 3 except join with a slip stitch on top of  the first HDC of the Row. (140)


Forming arm holes

Row14: Ch2, turn, HDC in each stitch until first marker, HDC in the marker stitch, ch4, HDC in the second marker stitch. Skip all stitches in between, this forms the first armhole. HDC in each stitch till the third marker, HDC in the marked stitch, ch4, HDC in the fourth marker stitch. Skip all stitches in between. This forms the second arm hole. Join  in the round with a slip stitch. (88)

Body
Here on we will continue to work in rounds and turn after each round.

Rnd1: ch2, turn, HDC in the first stitch and in each stitch around including the ch4 in the arm holes. Join with a slip stitch (88)

Rnd2: ch2, turn, HDC in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch (88)

Rnd3-10: Repeat Rnd2 (88)

Rnd11-13:  ch1, turn, SC in each stitch across, join with a  slip stitch (88)


Rnd14: ch 1, turn, SC2 in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch. (176)

Rnd15-30: ch3, turn, DC in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch. (176)

Rnd31: ch1, turn, YOSL in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch. (176)


Sleeves:
Repeat for both sleeves.

Join yarn in the underarm, in the middle of ch4 from Row14.

Rnd1: ch2, check the direction of work, it needs to be opposite of the previous row. HDC2T the ch spaces, HDC2T rough edge and next stitch, HDC in each stitch across from the yoke, HDC2T last stitch from yoke and rough edge, HDC2T next 2 ch spaces. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Rnd2: ch2 turn, HDC in each  stitch across. Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd3: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC in each stitch, HDC2T last 2 stitches, join with a slip stitch.

Rnd4-10: Repeat Rnd2 (32)

Rnd11: ch1 turn, SC in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch (32)

Rnd12: ch3 turn, DC2 in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch.(64)

Rnd13-14: ch3 turn, DC in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch. (64)

Rnd15: ch1 turn, YOSL in each stitch. Join with a slip stitch.

Edging around neck and back

Attach yarn on left bottom of back opening, SC evenly along left side, just before the corner stitch, ch5 and slip stitch in the same ch to form the button clasp. Work 3SC in the corner. 1SC in each foundation ch around the neck, work 3SC in the corner, come down the right side. Fasten off.
Attach a button.

Hide all tails and it is ready!

This is a very simple design and there's a lot of scope to make it fancier with color choices, borders, trims etc. But I wanted to keep it simple so the entire dress is worked in one color. What is special about it is that it has a button at the back so you don't have to worry about it passing over the head 😊



Because this is a raglan kind of sweater dress it is all worked in one piece and no sewing is needed! How cool is that! All I had to do was join yarn at underarms for each sleeve!

This is going to be my next free pattern so watch out for the pattern in the coming days!

Interestingly this dress uses simple stitches, sc, dc, hdc and a special slip stitch for the edging around the sleeve and the hem of the dress. Did you notice the edging?