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BlueberrySwirlz



This ear warmer pattern is very close to my heart. It uses the same stitch as my Floral Fantasy Scarf.  Read my blog on Floral Fantasy Scarf here. Because that is one of my premium patterns I decided to do a free pattern using the same stitch 😊

This pattern is for adult women's size and measures 19 inches wide. Working with a smaller yarn and hook will create a smaller one. I have not tested it though. If you do, please leave a comment about your experience so that it can help others trying this pattern.

If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. The PDF has a lot more progress pictures. Below is the free pattern. So here we go.


Materials:
Yarn: Caron Simply Soft, main color half skein (Off White), coordinating colors in small quantities - Soft pink and Robbin's egg.
Hook: 5.00mm
Scissors
Stitch marker - optional but good to have.


Abbreviations:
ch: chain
DC: Double Crochet
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
BLO: Back Loops Only
ss st: slip stitch


Special Stitches:
3rd loop of HDC:

On the wrong side of HDC stitches is a 3rd loop at the bottom. See image below. If you have any doubts lookup camel stitch or 3rd loop HDC on YouTube. IN THIS PATTERN WE ARE NEVER TURNING THE WORK, SO WORK IN THE 3RD LOOP AS SHOWN BELOW.




 Puff Stitch:  *yarn over, insert hook into ch1 space, and pull up a loop *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 9 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through 8 loops,  yarn over pull through 2 loops.

How to read the Pattern
3DC would mean 3 DC in the same stitch of previous row.
DC 3 would mean 1 DC in next 3 stitches

Note: This pattern is worked in the round and joined with slip stitch. The stitch count across the pattern remains same. 

Chain 72, join in the first ch

With Off White
Row1: ch1, HDC in the same stitch as ch1 and all the way across, join in the round.

Row2: ch1, SC in the 3rd loop of HDC, mark it with a stitch marker, SC in 3rd loop of HDC all the way across.

With Robbin's Egg
Row3: ch1, *SC 5 in BLO, ch2, skip 6 stitches, (DC + ch1) 7 times in both loops of the next stitch, ch1, skip 6 stitches* repeat from *to * till the end, join in the 1st SC with a ss st.

Row4: ss st into next stitch, ch1, *SC in BLO of next 3 stitches, ch2, puff stitch + ch1 in each ch1 space from previous row (6 times), ch1, skip 1SC from below* repeat from * to * till the end of the round, join with slip stitch on top of first SC.

With Off White
Row5: HDC in each of the 3 SC from previous row, 2HDC in each ch2 space, HDC in each puff stitch and each ch1 space. Join in the round with a slip stitch.

Row6: repeat Row 2

With Soft Pink
Row7: skip 2 stitches, join yarn in next stitch. ch4, put a stitch marker in 3rd ch. This acts as a DC + ch1. (DC +ch1) 6 more times in the same stitch, ch1, skip 6, SC 5 in BLO, ch 2, *skip 6, (DC +ch1) 7 times in the next stitch, ch1, skip 6, SC 5 in BLO, ch 2* repeat from * to * ss st on top of ch 3, marked with stitch marker.




Row8: ch2, (1puff stitch + ch1) in each ch1 space, ch1, skip 1SC below, SC 3 in BLO, skip 1 SC, ch2, *(1puff stitch +ch1) in each ch1 space below, ch1, skip 1SC below, SC 3 in BLO, skip 1 SC, ch2* repeat from * to * join with ss st in the first puff stitch.

With Off White
Row9:  repeat Row5
Row10: repeat Row2
Fasten off.

Line it with fleece if you live in a cold region like me 😊



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I made this blanket for my baby girl while I was expecting her. It took me a couple weeks as I went slow, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. There is an amazing video on YouTube by crochetblossom that does a swatch of this stitch. Super easy to follow.

I used Caron simply soft for this blanket as I wanted it to be really soft for my baby. Also the ripple stitch is denser than most other stitches and so the blanket has almost no holes...

Materials:

Yarn: Caron Simply Soft in Strawberry, Robin's egg and off white. 
Hook: 5.00

I used 2 skeins of each and was left with very little of each color. Ideally you could use 1 more skein of the first color and do the border in that color. 

Abbreviations:

C1: Color1 - Strawberry
C2: Color2 - Robin's egg
C3: Color3 - Off white

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc2t: double crochet two together
sc: single crochet


Note: ch3 does not count as a stitch.

With C1 ch mumtiples of 12 and then chain 3 more. I did a ch of 123.

Row1: dc in the 4th chain from hook, dc in the next 3 ch, *dc2t next 2 ch, dc2t next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, 2dc in each of next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch*  repeat from * to * until you are left with 4 stitches. Then dc in next 3 stitches, work 2 dc in the last ch. (120) 

Row2: ch3 turn, dc in the same stitch as ch3, dc in the next 3 stitches, *dc2t next 2 stitches, dc2t next 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, 2dc in each of next 2 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches* repeat from * to *  until you are left with 4 stitches. Then dc in next 3 stitches and  end with 2dc in the last stitch. (120)


Row3: repeat Row 2 in C1.

Row4-6: Repeat row 2 C2.

Row7-9: Repeat Row2 in C3.

Row10-12: Repeat Row2 in C1.

Repeat Rows 4-12 desired number of times. I repeated 7 more times.










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I am so in love with this scarf and it's name! The texture, colors, fringes! What's not to love!
I used Red heart soft for this project with 7.00 mm hook and it turned out super soft :)

 This pattern is one of my premium patterns and is now available to buy from my Etsy store. Click here to go to the Etsy listing.

 It turned out to be a real challenge to get the math right around the two types of ripples used in this scarf pattern. There was a lot of work and bit too much frogging!


 I would almost always make a mistake in the granny ripple row! Having said that...Very happy with the outcome and can't have enough of it! Look out for an ear warmer pattern in the same stitch coming out soon😊 
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I have been getting a lot of questions about this color block jacket I made for my son. So here is some information on how I made it. I believe the size would be 5T, but it is easily adjustable if you know to work a ragalan sleeve it is super easy.

I saw a post on instagram by @daisyfarmcrafts and decided to make one for my son. Head over to this link for their pattern. Below you can find my pattern notes.

Yarn: 2 skeins each of Caron simply soft in Royal Blue and Off White.
Hook : 6.0 mm for body and 5.0 mm for ribbing and edging.

The stitch used is alternating rows of SC and double crochet 2 together or DC2T.

Divide for sleeves after 5 alternating rows of sc and DC2T. Devide in the sc row.

Ribbing for sleeves and waist

Using smaller hook work 1 row of Double Crochets (dc)
6-7 rows(depending on how many you want) of alternating Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC) and Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC) stitches.



Front and hood edging

Front edging is worked with hood edging.
With smaller hook
Row1: Start at lower left corner. Half Double Crochet (HDC) evenly up to the beginning chain just before the hood starts, SWITCHING colors where ever needed.
Work DC evenly till you reach the other end of the hood. Work HDC on the right side.

Row2: Ch1 turn, go up the right side working HDC. Work alternating FPDC and BPDC stitches across the hood and switch to HDC for the left side.

Row3: ch1 turn, work HDC on the left side, alternating FPDC and BPDC on hood, work HDC on right side - ch1 skip 1 stitch for button holes. 
I have 5 button holes separated by 3 blocks of rows.

Row4: ch1 turn, work hdc in each stitch including ch1 on right side, SC on hood, HDC down the left side. Fasten off.


Attach buttons on left side for boys.

Update:
I have now liNed this jacket and attached buttons 😊
For lining I used a white throw from IKEA that was on sale for 1$ and I still have a lot of it left to make a little blanket for my baby or use it elsewhere. 

To line the jacket, I cut 1 back panel, 2 front panels, 2 for sleeves and sewed them all together. I did not take pictures..But I have seen there are videos on YouTube about how to do this. Hand sew the edges to the jacket leaving a slight margin.

Buttons are from Walmart.


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I created this jacket to wear over skinny jeans, T-shirt and boots. Sometimes when we are indoors, we need a warmer layer but not too warm. This 3/4th sleeve and sitting just over the waist Jacket is a perfect layering piece. The crew neck gives it a bit of formal look too when made in solid colors. I would love to see you all giving this pattern a try.  Don't forget to use #crochetswagjacket on social media 😊. Please follow me on Instagram @blueberryswirlz


If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. Below is the free pattern. So here we go.

Materials:
Yarn: Worsted Weight or Category 4 yarn. I used just over 6 skeins of Isaac Mizrahi Craft Yarn, University in Parsons
Hook: 5.5 mm
Tapestry needle( optional, for hiding the tails)
Abbreviations:
ch: chain
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
FLDC : Front Loop Double Crochet, a double crochet in the front loop only
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet
sl st: slip stitch

Suggestions for all other sizes are at the very end.

For size S
Ch 68
Row1: FLDC in 3rd ch from hook and all the way across (66)

Row2: Ch2, turn, FLDC in 9 stitches, 2FLDC, ch2, 2FLDC in the 10th stitch. *FLDC in the next  15 stitches, 2FLDC, ch2, 2FLDC in the next stitch*
Repeat from * to * 2 more times, FLDC in the remaining 8 stitches. (82)

Row3: ch2 turn. *FLDC in each stitch until the ch2 space. 2FLDC, ch2, 2FLDC in the ch2 space* repeat from * to* to complete the row.(98)

Row4-10: Repeat Row3 (226)

Shaping Armholes: 
FLDC in each stitch until first ch2 space, 2FLDC in first ch2 space, ch 2 , 2 FLDC in second ch2 space, we are going to skip all the stitches between the two ch2 spaces. This is the first armhole formed.
FLDC in next stitch and all the way to the thirst ch2 space. 2FLDC in third ch2 space, ch2 , 2 FLDC in fourth ch2 space, we are going to skip all the stitches between the two ch2 spaces. This is the second armhole formed. Ch2 turn


Body:
Row1:  FLDC in each FLDC from previous row and each ch in the armhole, ch2 turn.
Row2-15: FLDC in each stitch across, ch2 turn

Ribbing:

Row1: dc in both loops all the way across, ch2 turn.
Row2: dc in the first stitch which is the same stitch as ch2, *FPDC in next, BPDC in next* repeat from * to* until you have 1 stitch left, dc in last stitch. Ch2 turn.
Row3: Repeat Row2. Make sure FPDC is on top of FPDC from previous row and BPDC is on top of BPDC from previous row.

Sleeves:
Join the yarn in the middle Of the underarm. Mine is in the left ch2 when right side up. In the first row of the sleeve it is important that you work in the correct direction, with your work facing right side, join yarn and after a few stitches you will be able to make out if the direction of your work is correct or not.

Row1: ch2, dc in same stitch, dc2t the rough edges of the underarm, dc2t rough edge and ch space from Row10, dc2t ch2 space and next stitch. Until this point we are working in both loops. Now on continue to work in front loops only. Mark the center 2 loops in the round with stitch markers. FLDC in each stitch until the stitch markers, dc2t front loops only next 2 stitches, FLDC till you reach one stitch before the ch2 space from Row 10. Dc2t next stitch and ch2 space, dc2t ch2 space and rough edge, dc2t rough edge and ch from shaping underarm. Join with sl st to top of first dc. Ch2 turn
Note: when joining in the round join on both loops throughout the pattern.


Row2: dc2t front loops only - 2 times, FLDC all the way across with a dc2t in front loops only the 2 stitches in the center. Dc2t 2 times in the end, join with sl st, ch2 turn.

Row3: dc2t front loops only, FLDC all across with dc2t front loops only in the middle and continue with FLDC ending in dc2t front loops only, join with sl st ch2 turn. 47

Row4: dc2t front loops only, FLDC all the way across ending in dc2t front loops only join with sl st, ch2 turn. 45


Row5: repeat row 4 (43)

Row6: Repeat row4 (41)

Row7: FLDC all the way across, join with sl st, ch2 turn (41)

Row8: Repeat Row 4 (39)

Row9-16: repeat row7 (39)

Row17: repeat row4 (37)

Row18-19: repeat row7 (37)

Do not fasten, continue to sleeve ribbing.

Sleeve Ribbing:

At the end of row 19. Do not turn. Continue to ch9.

Row1: skip 1 chain and YOST into second chain from hook, YOST into the remaining chains, sl st into base of same stitch at ch9. (8)
Row2:  sl st into next stitch of sleeve, ch1, YOST into back loops only of previous row. Be careful to ignore the slip stitches at the beginning and do not miss the last stitch. Ch1, turn. (8)
Row3: YOSL into back loops only into each stitch, sl st into base if the stitch, sl st into next stitch of sleeve, ch1 turn. (8)
Repeat Rows 2and 3 all the way around the sleeve. Total 37 rows.
Sew the two ends of the sleeve ribbing using  slip stitches


Neckline or Collar Ribbing:

With right side facing up, join yarn in the corner of the left panel. Chain 11.
This ribbing is worked in the same way as the sleeve ribbing. Here you will have 66 rows.
Do not fasten off, continue to edging.

Front edging:
Right side: continue from the collar, ch1, turn work by 90 degrees. Evenly work 1 HDC along the length of the right front. I worked 1 HDC in each YOST from collar and approximately 2 HDC per row of the body. Ch1, turn

Row2-4: HDC across, ch1 turn.

Left side: join yarn to bottom of left panel and evenly work HDC along the left side. Ch1, turn
Make sure the number of stitches in same as on right edging.

Rows 2-4: HDC across, ch1, turn.


Suggestions for other sizes: 

Begin with the same number of base chains for each size. 

The difference comes in the row where we form armholes. 

For XS join for armholes one row before in this pattern that would be in the 10th row.

For M do additional 1 row before shaping armholes. 

For L do additional 3 rows before joining for armholes. 

For XL do additional 4 rows before joining for armholes. 

For sleeves follow same pattern and keep doing dc2t under the arm on the rough edges, after that continue in the same way..








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This pattern is worked top-down in one piece. If you know how to make raglan sleeve pattern alreadythen it is super duper easy for you! Otherwise also it is an easy pattern and uses simple stitches!

This vest is made thick and warm like a coat. Dress up with a long sleeve top or thermal and a pair of leggings and cute little boots!

All crochet terms are US terms. If you would like to buy a printable pdf you can buy it here in my Etsy Store.



Materials:
Yarn: Category 4 yarn.
Hook: 6.0 mm
Buttons
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
hhdc: herringbone half double crochet
ss: slip stitch

With 2 strands held together ch 44

Row1: hhdc in third ch from hook and all remaining stitches. 42

Row2: with stitch markers mark the 8th, 13th, 29th, 34th stitch. Ch2 turn, hhdc in each stitch except the ones with stitch markers. We are going to do 3 hhdc in each stitch(referred to as 3 stitch cluster here on) with a stitch marker. 50

Row3: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch across except the middle stitch from the 3 stitch clusters of the previous row. We are going to work 3 hhdc in each of the middle stitches. 58

Here on every row will increase by 8 stitches.
For size 2T
:  repeat Row3, seven times.
For size 3T: repeat Row3, eight times.
For size 4T; repeat row 3, nine times.

Making the armholes:

Row1: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch until you reach the middle stitch of first 3 stitch cluster. Work 1 hhdc in the middle stitch, ch 4, work 1 hhdc in the middle stitch of the next 3 cluster stitch. We are skipping all the remaining stitches between the 3 cluster stitches. Work 1 hhdc until you reach the middle stitch of the next 3 cluster stitch. Work 1 hhdc into the middle stitch, ch 4 work 1 hhdc into the middle stitch of the next cluster. Work 1 hhdc until you reach the end of the row.

Now your work should start looking like a vest.

Bodice:

Row1: ch2 turn, work 1 hhdc into each stitch across.

For size 2T: Repeat Row1 of bodice fifteen times.
For size 3T: Repeat Row1 of bodice sixteen times.
For size 4T: Repeat Row1 of bodice seventeen times.

Belt R1: ch1 turn, sc across.

Skirt:

Row1: ch 2 turn, 2 hhdc in ach stitch across.
Row2-5: ch 2 turn, work 1 hhdc in each stitch across.

Edging:

With CC we will crochet hdc stitches along the bottom, go up the front of one side, around the neck and come down the other side and join back to where we started.

Change to CC. Ch2 turn, work 1 hdc across, working a total of 3 stitches in the last stitch of the row. Rotate your work and even work hdc stitches along the front of one side of the vest. Work 3 hdc in the corner stitch and 1 hdc along each stitch of the neck, which is the foundation ch row. Work 3 hdc in the other corner of the neck, and rotate to work hdc stitches along the other front side of the vest. Work 2 stitches in the first stitch of CC, join with a ss and fasten off.

Armhole edging: 
Join CC in the middle of the armhole, facing right side of the vest, work 1 hdc stitch around, join with a ss and fasten off. Repeat for other armhole.

Attach buttons, use the hdc edging as button holes 😊

Add a simple flower if you like or leave it plain 😊

Note: I did start with sleeves initially but decided to keep it a vest. If you want to add sleeves attach your arm in the middle of the under arm and work a hhdc in stitch around decreasing 2 stitches in the first 2 rows. Always join and turn your rows to have the same texture as the bodice. Also, when you join the arm in the underarm be mindful of the direction. You will notice it immediately after a few stitches if the direction is not right.





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Sometimes our kids have that favorite jacket that does not have a hood and that is the only jacket they will wear. How i wished there was a way to add a hood to those! So here is something i designed for my son. It is warm and fuzzy and i even plan to layer it with fleece for the frigid weather.

Best of all he loves it! I asked him whether he would like a button on front or just a round turtle neck to pull it over his head and he said he wanted the button. So be it :)



Construction:
The general construction of the hooded collar is to create a horizontal panel wide enough to go around the neck. then create a vertical panel for the hood. This peice needs to wrap around the head.

Materials:
Yarn: Chunky weight 5 yarn, I used Bernat softee baby chunky in white and Bernat softee chunky in Faded Denim
Hook: 7.00 mm hook
Tapestry needle
Wooden buttons

Abbreviations:
sc: single crochet
sl: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
YOSS: Yarn over slip stitch.
MC: Main color
CC: Contrast Color
BLO: Back loops only
FPDC: Front post double crochet
BPDC: Back post double crochet

Special Stitch
YOSS: Yarn over, 2 loops on hook, insert hook in next stitch and pull up a loop and pull it through the 2 previous loops on hook.

Below numbers are for size 4-6 years. You can easily adjust to any size. Make your foundation chain long enough to around the neck at the bottom of the shoulders, forming a V shape at the bottom and add 6-7 chains more to it. Just like a collar would sit and allow for some overlap to add a button.

Collar
Chain 54 with MC
Row1: YOSS in second chain from hook and all the way across (53).
Row2: ch1 turn YOSS in BLO across the row
Row3-10: Repeat Row 2until you have reached a desired width(53)

Row11: ch1 turn sc 10, chain 31 or as many ch needed to reach the height from shoulder to crown.
Do not fasten off.

Hood 

ch 31 from Row11 of collar works as the foundation chain for the hood.
Row1: work 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in remaining 29 ch, then ss to base of collar (30).
Row2: ss in next stitch of collar, ch1 turn, sc across in 3rd loop of hdc from previous row of hood (30).

Note: do not fasten off if you know how to carry yarn through rows. Otherwise, fasten off. We will be changing colors every 2 rows for the rest of the hood and end in MC.

Row3: change to CC, ch1 turn hdc in BLO across, ss to base of hood (30).
Row4: ss to next stitch of collar, ch1 turn sc in 3rd loop of hdc from previous row (30).
Row5: change to MC, ch1 turn hdc in BLO across, ss to base of hood (30).
Row6: ss to next stitch of collar, ch1 turn sc in 3rd loop of hdc from previous row (30).

Repeat rows 3-6 seven more times or until 11 stitches remain on collar.

Row 35: ch1 turn, sc across and ss to collar, ch1 and sc in next 10 stitches of collar.
Optional Row36: I did a ch1 turn and a round of hdc all the way around. working 3 hdc in corners and hdc2t on the stitches where hood meets the collar.

At this point the hood part should wrap around the head from centre of one ear to another. We are going to gain some more width from the ribbing.

Fold the piece in half along the red line and sew along the blue line using either ss or sc.

Ribbing
Attach white (CC) with sl on either side of the collar, one stitch away from where hood and collar meet.
Ribbing Row1: dc in each stitch along the rim of the hood, join back to collar with ss skipping one stitch from the hood

Ribbing Row2: ss to next stitch on collar, FPDC in first stich of hood from previous round, BPDC in next stitch, FPDC in next and so on, alternate between FPDC and BPDC across the rim and join with a ss in the hood.

Ribbing Row3: repeat ribbing row 2.

Fasten off and add a button on the collar as shown in the picture. No need for a button hole as we can use the hdc row for that.

I ended up adding 2 buttons to make the fit snug.

That's my boy on our trip to the craft store!☺️




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My sister bought a new laptop for school recently and that gave me an opportunity to make her a laptop sleeve. I chose to go with worsted weight 100% cotton yarn, but I am sure it will turn out just as good with any other yarn too. 

I had some mint, white and grey yarn in my stash and decided to use these in a combination that wouldn't look too boring. 



The below pattern calls for a foundation chain in the multiples of 12 then add 3 chains. Using this calculation you can make a sleeve in pretty much any size. 

This pattern is free here but if you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here.

Below is the pattern for a 14" laptop but will easily fit something slightly smaller or bigger.

Materials: 
Yarn: 100% cotton yarn in worsted weight
I used mill end nafs of 100% cotton from AC Moore.
Hook: 5.0 mm
Scissors
Tapestry needle
3 buttons about 1/2 inches in size

Note: all stitches are in US terms 

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc2t: double crochet two together
sc: single crochet

Chain 51 (12×4+3) with mint
Row1: dc in the 4th chain from hook, dc in the next 3 ch, *dc2t next 2 ch, dc2t next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, 2dc in each of next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch*  repeat from * to * 2 more times. Then dc in next 3 stitches, work 2 dc in the last ch. (48) mint

Row2: ch3 turn, dc in the same stitch as ch3, dc in the next 3 stitches, *dc2t next 2 stitches, dc2t next 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, 2dc in each of next 2 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches* repeat from * to * 2 more times. Then dc in next 3 stitches and  end with 2dc in the last stitch. (48) mint

Row3: repeat row 2 with mint

Note: All subsequent rows are going to be a repeat of row2. Below I am only going to specify row number and color. The idea is to decrease the number of mint row repeats and increase the grey row repeats. Grey and mint are always separated by white. After 3 repeats start reversing the order.

Row4: mint
Row5: white
Row6: grey
Row7: white
Row8, 9, 10: mint 
Row11: white
Row12, 13: grey 
Row14: white
Row15, 16: mint
Row17: white 
Row18, 19, 20: grey
Row21: white
Row22: mint
Row23: white
Row24, 25, 26, 27: grey
Row28: white
Row29, 30: mint
Row31: white
Row32, 33, 34: grey 
Row35: white
Row36, 37, 38: mint
Row39: white
Row40, 41: grey

I stopped here. But if you want to make your flap longer follow the below sequence.

Row42: white
Here on repeat from Row1.


Edging: if you ended on a grey row continue with grey otherwise attach grey yarn to the corner where you ended your last row.
Row1: ch1 turn your work sideways and work sc evenly along the straight edge of the piece.
Row2: ch1, turn, sc all the way back along the same edge of the piece. Leave a very long tail for sewing. I left more than a yard long tail as I single crocheted the sides together.

Repeat Row1 and 2 of edging on the other straight edge. 

If you want to line the sleeve like I did, see lining section before continuing.

Now wrap the rectangle around your device and decide the position of the flap and how long you want it. Pin the sleeve sides, leaving a flap of desired length and with the tail, sc the sides together. Do this for both sides. Fasten of, hide the tail and turn your work inside out.

Sew on cute little buttons and we are all done!

Lining: 
I had some left over flannel fabric, it's actually a fat quarter, sew on the lining before you sc the sides.



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There are tons of patterns and designs out there for girls but not so much for boys. Hats are pretty much all I see on the internet.
I designed this shawl collar vest for my boy a couple months ago. It is really easy to make and can actually work for girls too. The vest is created by creating the back and front panels and sewing them together on the side and at the shoulders. And then crochet the ribbing along the neck. Alternately you could create the ribbing first and then sew it. It can be made in any size using any weight yarn.
Let's get started.

Materials:
Yarn: worsted weight yarn or any weight yarn of your choice in two colors, just use the appropriate hook. I used Mill end bag from Michael's in Maroon as my main color(MC) and Red heart soft in Blue as contrast color(CC).
Hook: 5 mm, 4mm
Tapestry needle: optional.
My numbers below are for size 5T years, but like I said above you can use the size chart here to make it in any size (Remember to click on Boys on top, it defaults to Girls.). Also, measure the width of the piece and verify it against the chart.

Abbreviations: 
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
ss: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
YO: yarn over
hhdc: herringbone half double crochet - YO insert hook into next stitch, YO pull through and pull through the first loop on the hook too. YO again and pull through 2 loops on the hook.
hhdc2t: herringbone half double crochet together - YO insert hook into next stitch, YO pull through and pull through the first loop on the hook too. YO insert into next stitch, pull up a loop and pull it thought the first loop on the hook. YO again and pull through 3 loops on the hook.

Bottom ribbing (make 2): Worked with the smaller hook - 4.00mm
With CC chain 11.
Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and all the way across (10)
Row 2: ch 1 turn single crochet in back loops only (10)
Row 3-51: Repeat row 2.

For all other sizes: Repeat Row 2 until the piece is as wide as desired without stretching.

Back panel:
Row1: Join the yarn at the end of the ribbing with a ss and sc 51 evenly across the ribbing (51)
Row2: chain 2, turn, hhdc in the same stitch and every stitch across. (51)
Row3-47: Repeat row 2 (51)
Or until desired height is reached.

Front panel:
Row1: Join the yarn at the end of the second ribbing with a ss and sc 51 evenly across the ribbing (51)
Row2: chain 2, and turn, hhdc in the same stitch and every stitch across. (51)
Row 3-21: Repeat row 2
Row 22-28: Change to CC repeat Row 2 with CC
Row 29-34: Change to MC and repeat Row2.

Add in a few extra rows between color changes for larger sizes and decrease for smaller sizes.

Shaping the neck:
Left side
Here we are going to work hhdc2t stitches on the inner side of the panel in each row to achieve a slanted edge like a V shape on the left side. Join yarn to the left side of the front panel. 

Row35: hhdc 21
Row36: ch2, turn,hhdc2t,  hhdc accross (20)
Row37: ch2, turn,, hhdc accross until 2 stitches remain, hhdc2t in the last 2 stitches(19)
Repeat rows 36 and 37 until height is same as back panel or a total of 47 rows is reached.

Right side: 
Here we are going to work hhdc2t stitches on the inner side of the panel in each row to achieve a slanted edge like a V shape on the right side. Join yarn to the right side of the front panel and work exactly like the left side.

you must have 9 stitches un-worked on row 35. 

Seaming and sleeve edging:
Seam the Back and Front panels together leaving a gap of 14 rows or as desired for the armholes. With CC join at the seam under the arm and work 2 rounds of hdc along the sleeve.

Collar:
With contrast color. Join the yarn with a slip stitch at left side of the unworked stitches on row 35. 
Row1: sc in the same stitch and remaining 8 stitches in the gap. Join with st to the first stitch of Right side.
Row2:ch1, turn and work sc in BLO on the 9 sc from the previous row. 
Repeat Row 2 evenly along the right edge of the neck and 1 row each on the back and again evenly across the left edge of the neck.

Stitch the last row with tapestry needle to the row 35 of the front panel on the under side of Row1. 

Collar Edging: With MC, sc evenly along the neck.

Hide all the tails and the vest is ready : )

Hope my instructions were easy enough to follow! Enjoy!
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After an overwhelming response for this hat on social media, I decided to write up the pattern. This hat is easy to make in any size and any weight of yarn, just use the appropriate hook.
If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. Below is the free pattern. So here we go.

Materials
Yarn: worsted weight yarn, I used Caron cakes.
Hook: 4mm and 5mm
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Pom pom maker (optional)

Abbreviations:
ch : chain
sc: single crochet
ss: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
hdc2t: half double crochet 2 together
YO: yarn over

Special stitches:
First star stitch: to begin a new round of star stitches, chain 3 then
insert into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop - 2 loops on hook
Insert into 3rd chain from hook, pull up a loop - 3 loops on hook
Insert into the 1st stitch of the round and pull up a loop - 4 loops on hook.
Insert into next 2 stitches and pull up a loop each - 6 loops on hook
YO and pull through all 6 loops.
Ch1 to form the eye of the star stitch.

Star Stitch: insert into the eye of the previous star stitch and pull up a loop - 2 loops on hook
Insert around the last post of the previous star stitch and pull up a loop - 3 loops on hook.
Insert into the same stitch as the last post of the previous star stitch and pull up a loop - 4 loops on hook
Insert into next 2 stitches and pull up a loop each - 6 loops on hook
YO and pull through all 6 loops.
Ch1 to form the eye of the star stitch.

Special sc2t: working in the star stitch round, insert hook into the eye of the previous star stitch and pull up a loop, insert hook into the slip stitch of the previous round and pull up a loop, YO pull through the 3 loops on hook.

hdc2t: YO and insert into stitch, YO and pull up a loop, 3 loops on hook. Insert into next stitch and pull up a loop, 4 loops on hook. YO and pull through 4 loops on hook.

Note: Measure the head you want to make the beanie for. With the smaller hook  create a ribbing of single crochets worked in the back loops only and make sure you have odd number of rows. Then work rest of the hat with the larger hook. A size chart can be found here.

Ribbing:
With smaller hook chain 8 for baby/toddler sizes , 9 for kids/teen size and chain 11 for adult size hat or more if you want the brim to be wider.
Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain from hook and all the way across, ch 1 and turn
Row 2:  sc BLO in the 1st st, that is the same as your ch1 and all the way across, ch1 and turn.
Now repeat Row2 until your piece measures half inch less than the head measurement. Making sure you have odd number of rows.
Join the 2 ends of the ribbing together with a ss to form a circle. Turn the ribbing inside out so that the slip stitch is on the inside.


Hat:
Ch 1 and begin working in rounds.
Round1: sc evenly across each row of the brim ss to 1st sc of the round. You must have odd number of stitches.

Round2: ch1 and work a hdc in the same stitch as the ch1 and all the way across, join with a ss into the 1st hdc of the round.

Round3: ch1 and work a sc into the 3rd loop of the 1st hdc from previous round. This is a little tricky so make sure you don't miss the first stitch. Work a sc in all the stitches in the round. The 3rd loop of a hdc is on the wrong side of the stitch so turn your work slightly inwards to see the 3rd loop. This stitch is also called a hdc camel stitch.

Round4: work the first star stitch and then the rest of the star stitches in the round. After you have worked your last star stitch, work the special special sc2t and join in the round. You should have half the number of star stitches as your beginning sc and a special sc2t.

Round5: ch1 and work 2 sc in each eye of the Star Stitch from the previous round, work 1 sc into the sc2t from the previous round. You should have the same number of stitches as round 1.


Repeat rounds 2-5 as many times as needed to reach 1 inch short of  the height of the hat.
Typically 1 more time for baby size, 2 for child and 3 times for young adult/ adult sizes.

Round6: ch1 hdc2t across the round, working a hdc in the last stitch and join with a ss.

Round7: Repeat Round4

Round8: Repeat Round5

Round9: Repeat Round 6


Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Thread the tapestry needle with the tail and work a running stitch in the last round, pull tight to close the hole on the top and weave in the end.
You can either stop here or attach a pom pom on top. 


Special note: to make a messy bun beanie stop at round 8 and work a round of sc around a hair tie.

Please leave your suggestions/ thoughts and experiences with this pattern in the comments below.
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