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I had been wanting to try the Lion Brand Yarn Go for Faux for a while and I found a great deal on Walmart. 3 skeins for 10$. I was able to make this for vest with a nice and big hood plus have some left to make a hat or something.

I have made this for 6-12 months size. My baby is exactly 6 months old in this picture. But there is still a lot of room for when she grows to be 12 months old. So the hood needs to be bigger/ longer as she barely has any neck yet :D

So, below numbers are for this size but you could go exactly as I did. I took my baby's Oshkosh Gosh fleece hoodie and kept making according to it. Also, look for the inside room of this garment. Because the yarn is so thick it will be a lot smaller on the inside than it looks from outside.

Also, the yarn needs some getting used to. Make some chains, HDC to get a hang of it first. The stitches are super difficult to see but can be felt easily. Use stitch markers where ever possible!

I was a little slow but by the time I reached round 4, my speed had picked up a lot.

If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. Below is the free pattern.

Materials:

Yarn: Go for Faux by Lion brand yarn. 3 skeins which is a category 6 yarn.
Hook: 10.0 mm
Stitch markers: at least 4.
A sample hoodie to go by :)

Abbreviations:
Ch: chain
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
HDC2T: Half Double Crochet 2 Together

For size 6-12m
Chain 40, join to the first chain with a slip stitch.

For other sizes, make a long chain and join. Measure against the bottom of the sample hoodie. Remember to measure the inside of the chain with the hoodie.

Round1: ch2, HDC in the first stitch and all the way across. Join in the round with a sl st. (40)

Round2-8: ch2, turn, HDC across. Sl st to the first stitch. (40)

Place stitch markers in the 1st, 20th, 21st and the 40th stitches. This step is very important while working with this yarn, as stitches are hard to see and you have to feel them. Stitches 1 to 20 will form the front and 21st to 40 the back side.

We will be working the back and the front from here in rows.
Front:
Round9: CH2 turn, HDC2T, HDC 16, HDC2T. (18)

Round10: ch2 turn. HDC2T, HDC 14, HDC2T. (16)

Place stitch markers in the 8th and 9th stitches to mark the ends of front left and front right. These are the middle 2 stitches of the front side, we mark them to form a V-neck.

Front left:
Round11: ch2 turn, HDC6, HDC2T. (7)

Round12: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC5 to the end of the row. (6)

Round13: ch2 turn, HDC5, HDC2T. (5)

Round14: ch2 turn, HDC across. (5)
Leave a long tail for sewing.

Front right:
Round11: attach yarn in the 9th stitch of round 10. Ch2, HDC2T, HDC6. (7)

Round12: ch2 turn, HDC 5, HDC2T. (6)

Round13:ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC 4. (5)

Round14: ch2 turn, HDC across. (5)

Back:
Repeat round 7 and 8 from front side. (16)

Round11-14: ch2 turn, HDC across. (16)

Sewing:

Sew the tops shoulders together marking five stitches on both left and right sides of the back panel. Sew using sl st. Turn the piece inside out. Pull out some of the fur that has settled in between the stitches and fluff them a bit.


Hood:

With right side facing up, attach yarn to 3 stitches down from shoulder seem on left front.

Row1: Ch2, HDC in same stitch and next stitch, HD2T next stitch and the first stitch on the back of the neck line. Work 1 HDC in each of the stitches from the back of neckline. HDC2T the last stitch of neckline and first stitch of right front. HDC in next 2 stitches. (10)

Row2: ch2 turn, 2HDC in first stitch, HDC across and 2 HDC in last stitch. (12)
Repeat Row2 as many times as needed, I repeated 8 more times. (28)

Next row: Ch2, turn, HDC across. (28)

Next row: Ch2, turn, HDC across. (28)

Do not fasten off. Fold the top of the hood in half and slip stitch the last row together to form a hood. As shown by the blue dotted line below.
Fasten off.

Attach the yarn in one stitch before the hood on the left front. ch2, work HDC evenly across the front of the hood, work 2 HDC2T stitches around the sewing on top of the hood, Continue to work HDC to the end of the hood. sl st to right front and fasten off.



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I simply loved the colors in the little bo beep shade of Bernat Softee Baby yarn. Originally bought for my baby girl, there were 2 skeins left and when my dear friend was visiting I decided to make her a sweater. Now, working with a weight 3 yarn is very different than working with weight 4. It seems to take longer but the end result is worth it!




I used Bernat Softee Baby Little Bo Beep  as my Primary Color(Variegated) and Bernat Softee Baby Antique White as my Secondary color. But you can try pretty much any combination you want. Use solid shades for both or solid as primary color and variegated for secondary color, the choices are endless.
Below is the pattern for US size XS/S. It is meant to be a little fitted.
If you would like a printable PDF file with more sizes (M and L), please head over to my Etsy store or click here.

Level: Intermediate (2-3/5)

Materials:
Yarn: 3 skeins of Bernat Softee Baby in primary color and 1 skeins of secondary color
Hook: 4.5 mm
Stitch markers: 4
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet
HDC2T: Half Double Crochet 2 Together
SC2T: Single Crochet 2 together

Pattern Notes:
3 Stitch Cluster: 3 HDC stitches worked in the same stitch to form a cluster, used in the increase rounds for raglan. 
Starting ch does not count as a stitch. Join with sl st at the end of each round and turn.

How to read the Pattern
 2DC would mean 2 DC in the same stitch of previous row. DC2 would mean 1 DC in each of the next 2 stitches


Chain 80 with primary color, join in the round with a sl st, turn.
Rnd1: ch3, dc in the same stitch as ch3 and all the way across. (80)

Rnd2: ch3, work alternating FPDC and BPDC across. (80)

Rnd3: ch2, HDC across. (80)


Dividing for sleeves. Place stitch marker in 2nd stitch of each 3 stitch cluster.

Rnd4: ch2, HDC in 14 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 11 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 27 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 11 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, HDC in next 13 stitches. Join with slip stitch and turn.(88)



Rnd5: ch2, HDC in each stitch till you reach the first stitch marker, 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster, *continue HDC to the next stitch marker, work a 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch and place marker in the 2nd stitch of the cluster* repeat from * to * 2 more times. Work HDC in each of the remaining stitches. (96)

Each row will increase by 8 stitches.
Repeat Rnd5 twelve more times to end with 192 stitches.

Joining to form armholes.
Rnd18: HDC in each stitch till the first stitch marker, 1 HDC in the stitch marker, ch4, HDC in the 2nd stitch marker, Skip all stitches in between. This will form the first armhole. Continue HDC stitches to 3rd stitch marker, 1 HDC in the 3rd stitch marker, ch4, HDC into the 4th stitch marker. This forms the second armhole. HDC into the remaining stitches. Join with slip stitch and turn as usual. (112 HDC + 8 chains)


Body
If you have end up with an extra stitch or a stitch less. Adjust in this round using HDC2T or working 2HDC in the last stitch to end with 120 stitches. It is important to have 120 stitches to work the ripple effect.
Rnd19: ch2 turn. HDC in each stitch across, including the ch4s in the under arms. Work 1 HDC in each chain. Join with a slip stitch. (120)

Repeat Rnd19 twenty more times.

Setup round for ripple.

Rnd40
: Switch to secondary color. ch1 turn,  * SC2, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2* repeat from * to* join with a slip stitch. (120)

Rnd41-42:  ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (120)

Rnd43:  Switch to primary color. ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (120)

Repeat Rnd41 and Rnd43 in combinations of 3 rounds of Rnd41 and 1 round of Rnd43 for three more times.

Rnd56-58 in Secondary Color.



Fasten off or repeat to reach a desired length.


Sleeves:

Join primary color yarn in the under arm. In between the ch4.

Check the direction of your work. It should be opposite of the previous round. You will know for sure after 4-5 stiches. If it looks odd, go back and start in the opposite direction.

Rnd1: ch2, HDC, HDC2T, HDC2T the rough edges, work HDC evenly in each stitch from the yoke. HDC2T, the rough edges, HDC2T, slip stitch to join. (45)

If you have extra stitches adjust in this round by doing HDC2T as needed
Rnd2: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (45)

Rnd3: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC across to the end and HDC2T the last 2 stitches. Join with a slip stitch. (43)

Rnd4-10: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (43)

Rnd11: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC across to the end and HDC2T the last 2 stitches. Join with a slip stitch. (41)

Rnd12-18: ch2 turn, HDC across, join with a slip stitch. (41)



Setup row for ripple effect.

Row1: with secondary color ch1 turn, SC2T, SC, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2, * SC2, HDC2, DC2, HDC2, SC2* repeat from * to* join with a slip stitch. (40)

Row2: ch2 turn, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch.  (40)

Row3: Repeat Row2 (40)

Row4: switch to primary color, ch2 turn, repeat Row 2 (40)

Row5-7: Repeat Row 2 (40)

Row8: Switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC2T, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2T, HDC2T, join with a slip stitch. (38)

Row9-11: Switch to secondary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HTC2T, * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to *  and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC, HDC2T. Join with a slip stitch. (38)

Row12: Switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC2T, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Row13-15: Switch to secondary color. ch2, turn, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T, *HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Row16: switch to primary color. Ch2 turn, HDC2T, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC2T. Join with a slip stitch. (32)

Row17-19: with secondary color, ch2 turn. HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and then in the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, HDC. Join with slip stitch (32)

Row20: switch to primary color, ch2 turn, HDC2T the first two stitches and plus one additional HDC in the second stitch, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * and then for the last ripple HDC2T, HDC2, HDC in the second last stitch plus, HDC2T second last stitch and the last stitch. Join with a slip stitch. (30)

Row21-22: switch to secondary color, ch2 turn,  2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T,  * HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, 2HDC, HDC2, HDC2T* repeat from * to * then HDC2T, HDC2, 2HDC, join with a slip stitch. (30)

Row23: ch1 turn, 2SC, SC2, SC2T, *SC2T, SC2, 2SC, 2SC, SC2, SC2T, repeat from * to * then SC2T, SC2, 2SC, join with a slip stitch (30)

Repeat Row 21 more times in appropriate colors for longer sleeves.



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I had a bag of 8 skeins of this yarn. It is very soft has a kind of touch of alpaca feel to it. But because I found it as a mill end bag in Michaels, I have no idea what it is. It is a beautiful yarn and a DK weight. If I ever know what it is I will buy again. 

If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. Below is the free pattern.

Materials: 
Yarn: DK weight or category 3 yarn. Recommended yarn Bernat Softee Baby - 4 skeins
Hook: 5.0 mm
1 button of choice

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
YOST: Yarn Over Slip Stitch
HDC2T: Half Double Crochet 2 Together
3 stitch cluster: 3 HDC stitches worked in the same stitch.

Chain 46

Row1: HDC in second ch from hook and all the way across.(44)

Row2: ch2, turn. HDC in next 8 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch, place marker in 2nd stitch, HDC in next 4 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next stitch, HDC in next 16 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next, HDC in next 4 stitches, 3 stitch cluster in next, HDC in next 8 stitches. (52)

Row3: ch2, turn. *HDC in each stitch till the first marker, 3 stitch cluster in the marked stitch* repeat from * to * till the 4th marker, HDC in each of the remaining stitches. (60)

Each round increases by 8 stitches.
Row4-12: Repeat Row3 (132)

Joining in the back
Row13: Work same as Row 3 except join with a slip stitch on top of  the first HDC of the Row. (140)


Forming arm holes

Row14: Ch2, turn, HDC in each stitch until first marker, HDC in the marker stitch, ch4, HDC in the second marker stitch. Skip all stitches in between, this forms the first armhole. HDC in each stitch till the third marker, HDC in the marked stitch, ch4, HDC in the fourth marker stitch. Skip all stitches in between. This forms the second arm hole. Join  in the round with a slip stitch. (88)

Body
Here on we will continue to work in rounds and turn after each round.

Rnd1: ch2, turn, HDC in the first stitch and in each stitch around including the ch4 in the arm holes. Join with a slip stitch (88)

Rnd2: ch2, turn, HDC in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch (88)

Rnd3-10: Repeat Rnd2 (88)

Rnd11-13:  ch1, turn, SC in each stitch across, join with a  slip stitch (88)


Rnd14: ch 1, turn, SC2 in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch. (176)

Rnd15-30: ch3, turn, DC in each stitch across, join with a slip stitch. (176)

Rnd31: ch1, turn, YOSL in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch. (176)


Sleeves:
Repeat for both sleeves.

Join yarn in the underarm, in the middle of ch4 from Row14.

Rnd1: ch2, check the direction of work, it needs to be opposite of the previous row. HDC2T the ch spaces, HDC2T rough edge and next stitch, HDC in each stitch across from the yoke, HDC2T last stitch from yoke and rough edge, HDC2T next 2 ch spaces. Join with a slip stitch. (34)

Rnd2: ch2 turn, HDC in each  stitch across. Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd3: ch2 turn, HDC2T, HDC in each stitch, HDC2T last 2 stitches, join with a slip stitch.

Rnd4-10: Repeat Rnd2 (32)

Rnd11: ch1 turn, SC in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch (32)

Rnd12: ch3 turn, DC2 in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch.(64)

Rnd13-14: ch3 turn, DC in each stitch across. Join with a slip stitch. (64)

Rnd15: ch1 turn, YOSL in each stitch. Join with a slip stitch.

Edging around neck and back

Attach yarn on left bottom of back opening, SC evenly along left side, just before the corner stitch, ch5 and slip stitch in the same ch to form the button clasp. Work 3SC in the corner. 1SC in each foundation ch around the neck, work 3SC in the corner, come down the right side. Fasten off.
Attach a button.


Hide all tails and it is ready!



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This is a very simple design and there's a lot of scope to make it fancier with color choices, borders, trims etc. But I wanted to keep it simple so the entire dress is worked in one color. What is special about it is that it has a button at the back so you don't have to worry about it passing over the head 😊



Because this is a raglan kind of sweater dress it is all worked in one piece and no sewing is needed! How cool is that! All I had to do was join yarn at underarms for each sleeve!

This is going to be my next free pattern so watch out for the pattern in the coming days!

Interestingly this dress uses simple stitches, sc, dc, hdc and a special slip stitch for the edging around the sleeve and the hem of the dress. Did you notice the edging?

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This ear warmer pattern is very close to my heart. It uses the same stitch as my Floral Fantasy Scarf.  Read my blog on Floral Fantasy Scarf here. Because that is one of my premium patterns I decided to do a free pattern using the same stitch 😊

This pattern is for adult women's size and measures 19 inches wide. Working with a smaller yarn and hook will create a smaller one. I have not tested it though. If you do, please leave a comment about your experience so that it can help others trying this pattern.

If you wish to buy an inexpensive printable PDF for this pattern you can buy it from my Etsy shop here. The PDF has a lot more progress pictures. Below is the free pattern. So here we go.


Materials:
Yarn: Caron Simply Soft, main color half skein (Off White), coordinating colors in small quantities - Soft pink and Robbin's egg.
Hook: 5.00mm
Scissors
Stitch marker - optional but good to have.


Abbreviations:
ch: chain
DC: Double Crochet
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
BLO: Back Loops Only
ss st: slip stitch


Special Stitches:
3rd loop of HDC:

On the wrong side of HDC stitches is a 3rd loop at the bottom. See image below. If you have any doubts lookup camel stitch or 3rd loop HDC on YouTube. IN THIS PATTERN WE ARE NEVER TURNING THE WORK, SO WORK IN THE 3RD LOOP AS SHOWN BELOW.




 Puff Stitch:  *yarn over, insert hook into ch1 space, and pull up a loop *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 9 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through 8 loops,  yarn over pull through 2 loops.

How to read the Pattern
3DC would mean 3 DC in the same stitch of previous row.
DC 3 would mean 1 DC in next 3 stitches

Note: This pattern is worked in the round and joined with slip stitch. The stitch count across the pattern remains same. 

Chain 72, join in the first ch

With Off White
Row1: ch1, HDC in the same stitch as ch1 and all the way across, join in the round.

Row2: ch1, SC in the 3rd loop of HDC, mark it with a stitch marker, SC in 3rd loop of HDC all the way across.

With Robbin's Egg
Row3: ch1, *SC 5 in BLO, ch2, skip 6 stitches, (DC + ch1) 7 times in both loops of the next stitch, ch1, skip 6 stitches* repeat from *to * till the end, join in the 1st SC with a ss st.

Row4: ss st into next stitch, ch1, *SC in BLO of next 3 stitches, ch2, puff stitch + ch1 in each ch1 space from previous row (6 times), ch1, skip 1SC from below* repeat from * to * till the end of the round, join with slip stitch on top of first SC.

With Off White
Row5: HDC in each of the 3 SC from previous row, 2HDC in each ch2 space, HDC in each puff stitch and each ch1 space. Join in the round with a slip stitch.

Row6: repeat Row 2

With Soft Pink
Row7: skip 2 stitches, join yarn in next stitch. ch4, put a stitch marker in 3rd ch. This acts as a DC + ch1. (DC +ch1) 6 more times in the same stitch, ch1, skip 6, SC 5 in BLO, ch 2, *skip 6, (DC +ch1) 7 times in the next stitch, ch1, skip 6, SC 5 in BLO, ch 2* repeat from * to * ss st on top of ch 3, marked with stitch marker.




Row8: ch2, (1puff stitch + ch1) in each ch1 space, ch1, skip 1SC below, SC 3 in BLO, skip 1 SC, ch2, *(1puff stitch +ch1) in each ch1 space below, ch1, skip 1SC below, SC 3 in BLO, skip 1 SC, ch2* repeat from * to * join with ss st in the first puff stitch.

With Off White
Row9:  repeat Row5
Row10: repeat Row2
Fasten off.

Line it with fleece if you live in a cold region like me 😊



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I made this blanket for my baby girl while I was expecting her. It took me a couple weeks as I went slow, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. There is an amazing video on YouTube by crochetblossom that does a swatch of this stitch. Super easy to follow.

I used Caron simply soft for this blanket as I wanted it to be really soft for my baby. Also the ripple stitch is denser than most other stitches and so the blanket has almost no holes...

Materials:

Yarn: Caron Simply Soft in Strawberry, Robin's egg and off white. 
Hook: 5.00

I used 2 skeins of each and was left with very little of each color. Ideally you could use 1 more skein of the first color and do the border in that color. 

Abbreviations:

C1: Color1 - Strawberry
C2: Color2 - Robin's egg
C3: Color3 - Off white

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc2t: double crochet two together
sc: single crochet


Note: ch3 does not count as a stitch.

With C1 ch mumtiples of 12 and then chain 3 more. I did a ch of 123.

Row1: dc in the 4th chain from hook, dc in the next 3 ch, *dc2t next 2 ch, dc2t next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, 2dc in each of next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch*  repeat from * to * until you are left with 4 stitches. Then dc in next 3 stitches, work 2 dc in the last ch. (120) 

Row2: ch3 turn, dc in the same stitch as ch3, dc in the next 3 stitches, *dc2t next 2 stitches, dc2t next 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, 2dc in each of next 2 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches* repeat from * to *  until you are left with 4 stitches. Then dc in next 3 stitches and  end with 2dc in the last stitch. (120)


Row3: repeat Row 2 in C1.

Row4-6: Repeat row 2 C2.

Row7-9: Repeat Row2 in C3.

Row10-12: Repeat Row2 in C1.

Repeat Rows 4-12 desired number of times. I repeated 7 more times.










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I am so in love with this scarf and it's name! The texture, colors, fringes! What's not to love!
I used Red heart soft for this project with 7.00 mm hook and it turned out super soft :)

 This pattern is one of my premium patterns and is now available to buy from my Etsy store. Click here to go to the Etsy listing.

 It turned out to be a real challenge to get the math right around the two types of ripples used in this scarf pattern. There was a lot of work and bit too much frogging!


 I would almost always make a mistake in the granny ripple row! Having said that...Very happy with the outcome and can't have enough of it! Look out for an ear warmer pattern in the same stitch coming out soon😊 
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I am a wife, mom, avid reader, artist, working professional who likes doing all things crafty. I am also passionate about travel and hiking. I hope you like what you see here.

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